We had originally only planned on one stop before our next hotel but because we missed the Bat Falcon and the Owls we doubled back a tiny bit to try for these two birds before our scheduled stop. Cachi Dam was only 15 minutes from Hotel Quelitales so we were there by 9. Instead of all the food trucks and tourists that were present on a weekend, it was empty on a Monday. We parked the car right at the end of the one lane across the bridge so we could see it as we walked across. Facebook was full of stories about never leaving anything in your car and walking away because roving bandits were everywhere so we exercised some caution since our suitcases and laptops were in the car. Jerry walked down and I followed slowly behind. We scanned the dam gates and structures as had been suggested. Nothing. We scanned the trees along the hill beside the dam as had been suggested. Nothing. Jerry decided to head back towards the car as I continued across. It was looking like there would be no joy again. I finished checking all the dam and then decided to check the trees again. As I scanned across the far hills I saw a lump at the top of a dead tree halfway up the hill that had not been there a few minutes before. Bins confirmed it to be the Bat Falcon! I yelled to Jerry to come back and he got as close as he could to take some pictures, which was not very close LOL. Success! it had taken all of 19 minutes.
Our next stop was Parque de Paraiso for the Tropical Screech Owls known to roost there. The park was still busy but no where near what it was on Saturday. We had to circle around to find a parking spot and ended up with one directly beside the trees the owls supposedly used. As we walked up a local started looking up too so I asked him if he knew where the owls were. He got up and walked down the path and then beckoned me over. Just 1, not the 2 but still how wonderful! We thanked him and spent some moments watching it and taking pictures and video. It was shaping up to be a good day! Two for two. How strange that these owls are comfortable roosting and nesting in a very busy park with lots of people sitting below them talking, children playing and Saturday market days with so much going on. They have been there for a few years now.
We stopped to pick up beer at a small grocery where it was half the price we had paid in San Jose and then filled up the car with gas and we were on our way to the birding stop, the Botanical Gardens, (CAITE) at the University. We arrived just after 11, the hottest part of the day and walked the gardens off the parking area. We still added a couple of lifers, Roadside Hawk and an Olive-backed Euphonia, to our list. Back at the car we watched the Montezuma Oropendolas tending their swinging nests in a massive Palm tree by the parking lot.
We then drove through the coffee plantation part adding a Giant Cowbird to the lifer list and saw a large Iguana crossing the road.
Further along there was a large marsh/lake that had hundreds of Cattle Egrets nesting in bamboo at the edge and lots of other marsh birds.
We parked and walked around the lake adding Northern Jacana and Russet-naped Wood Rail as well as some wetland species to the year list.
The last bird of the visit was a beautiful Green Honeycreeper, a stunning bird that I almost did not see. Jerry said “oh I’ve got this blue bird, and I said Blue/Gray Tanager?” as I had just seen one a minute before. Silence, he continued to take pictures. Eventually I realized he was still taking pictures and asked him what he had and put my bins on it and when I saw the gorgeous colour I realized it was not the tanager! I think he thought he had answered me and couldn’t figure why I was not more interested LOL. It was a gorgeous bird! Stunning turquoise really.
We then headed to Rancho Naturalista for a 3 day stay. A beautiful lodge with a dining area looking out to a feeding station and an upper deck with some hummingbird feeders as well as the feeding station view. Our room was lovely with doors opening out to the rain forest.
Arriving late afternoon the forests seemed quiet but after getting our room situated we stepped out for a bit of a walk around and added one lifer, the Thicket Antpitta which was singing over and over from a ravine off the lodge road. Jerry was a tad grouchy, long day, hot and silent forest. He went to take a nap and I sat outside our room and in minutes I had 3 more lifers all heard only, Bay Wren, Red-throated Ant-Tanager and Orange-billed Sparrow. Jerry woke up when I went in to get my camera so his nap was a quick 10 minutes. We eventually saw the Sparrow and Wren before dusk stopped our birding for the day. The sun is up the same hours every day, 5:30am – 5:30-6pm.
At Rancho Naturalista 3 meals every day are included and the food was fantastic. It was served on family platters at communal long tables so that guests got to know each other. The first night we were seated with a couple from Germany and then we joined a big table that included Greg and Heather, who we had met at Hotel Bougainvillea. They were finishing their stay at Rancho and we enjoyed catching up with them in the evening and the next morning.
We had booked a private guide, Steven for the next two mornings. We met up with him at 5:30 and in the 1.5 hours before breakfast we heard and saw 50 species with 18 of them being lifers for us. Steven was fantastic at the calls and knowing where to look along the roads close by. Highlights were Collared Aracari, White-collared Manakin, Rufous-winged Woodpecker, Cocoa Woodcreeper and a Checker-throated Stipplethroat, a bird I just wanted to see for its name. The bird is a bit underwhelming looking to be honest and Jerry did not manage a picture as it was deep in the leaves. Steven used pishing and some calls of his own and in a few instances playback to entice birds in closer. Jerry did his best but trying to get pictures was difficult with birds far away, in the leaves of trees or low to the ground, in the dark tangle of the forest. So this is the result – very sad pictures but they still hold memories for us being there and seeing the birds in our awesome binoculars where the view was much better than the pictures suggest. LOL
We saw or heard another 51 species on our forest walk after breakfast seeing the Tawny Chested Flycatcher, a rarer species, Dull-mantled Antbird and a Dusky Antbird, both difficult birds to find and to actually see being black and preferring the darkness of forest streams and bushes. We hoped to see the Thicket Antpitta that was constantly calling but it would not come onto its normal path to get some worms the staff leave for it every day. We added Spotted Woodcreeper and Wedge-billed Woodcreeper to the list and Jerry managed pictures of both.
The paths are full of Leaf-cutter Ants and Army Ants and I assumed the Antpittas and Antbirds all feast on them but they do not eat ants, instead they have a parasitic relationship with the ants. While the ants move about other insects move out of their way and it is these insects that the Antbirds prey on. Cool huh? We heard a Collared Trogon and followed its calling back and forth along the paths until Steven managed to see it sitting back in the greenery. We did not have great views but it was our first Trogon in Costa Rica. Hoping we get better views of others.
At the end of our walk Steven tried to entice a Tarantula out from under its rock but it was not falling for the trick. We were happy to have it stay there where it was likely guarding its eggs.
We returned in time for a fantastic lunch of the best tacos and guacamole I have had. I was so “high” from all the birds we saw on the hike I forgot to take pictures. Well, to be honest, I was too busy stuffing my mouth with the deliciousness that I forgot to take a picture. The morning was such a fantastic birding experience, we were sold on using guides.
In the afternoon we tried to go through photos and lists to get everything on it. Steven led us to 48 lifers in half a day – we have been averaging about 20 on our own. It was a tad overwhelming though as he heard other things while we were listening to something else. I missed putting things on the list because he would hear multiple things so I added only those birds we saw or we actually stood and heard singing long enough with Steven saying “that is such and such” for us to confirm the bird.
Late afternoon we ventured down the main road to check out the hummingbirds at the owners house, she graciously welcomes any guests to sit and enjoy the hummingbirds. We were lucky to see a Male Snowcap right after we arrived and had better views of the Green Thorntail.
Our dining companions for the two nights were couples from England, US, and Nova Scotians, Richard and Tammy. It was a lively bunch and the conversation was about birding of course but also favourite books, traveling, families, past work, and a tiny bit of politics stemming from the Americans apologizing. It made the evening really entertaining with us hanging long after the meal was done which meant we were further behind on lists and photos but eventually we will get caught up and it is so nice to meet lovely people and enjoy a meal with good conversation.
The next morning we left the lodge with Steven to check out a few different areas to add birds not found in the rain forest. We walked up a rural road with farms and fields and added ten new lifers! Seedeaters, Sparrows, Tanagers and a Green Ibis.
Then we headed to an organic sugarcane company to add Gray-breasted Martin and a Torrent Tyrannulet in the nearby river that also netted us our 3rd Sunbittern of the trip. We tried for Cabanis Ground Sparrow but it was probably too late in the day for them to pop up.
Our last stop was for a Lancelated Monklet, one of the top rarities that people want in Costa Rica. Steven called at a few spots where he had it in the past but no bird showed up. We walked further up the road looking for Fasciated Tiger-Heron in the river but did not see one so headed back down and as we stood at the previous spot suddenly a bird flew in and it was the Monklet! What a different looking bird!
As we have birded we have started seeing birds that up till now we just kept hearing. We heard a Yellow-olive Flatbill a few days back and finally saw it at this lodge, same with the Mistletoe Tyrannulet.
On our last afternoon we headed for the covered deck set up in the field area with a view of the forests. It was pretty quiet but we still heard and saw a number of birds and added another Trogon species, the Gartered Violaceous Trogon, unfortunately we just heard it, and heard it as it called. Hopefully we will catch up with this one at the next lodge.
I left our room door open for a few minutes so we could hear the birds and suddenly little critters were wanting to check things out. They were not harmed but transported back outside and our room door stayed closed after that.
Next morning we birded just an hour before breakfast and did not add any new birds! but had nice views of the Red-throated Ant-Tanager and Jerry took a much nicer picture.
The eggs at breakfast were delicious. I assume that they baked them maybe in a large round tray and spiced just right. We ate our usual hearty breakfast and then headed onward.
Rancho Naturalista is a special place and very well-known in the birding world. We paid for an expensive room because it was the only thing available so if you are considering going book way in advance. The Lodge is small and it is popular. Our itinerary was based around the dates we could get into Rancho Naturalista. This was our most expensive place to stay because of the room so it does not need to be that expensive if you book in advance. The food was fantastic, three meals included in the price with an honour system for cold beer and wine purchases. They also will do laundry at a reasonable price of $15 for half of a large laundry hamper. The number of species of birds possible was incredible and I wish we had more time at this lodge. The guide was excellent and I heard from others that their guides were also very good.
Stops and Rancho Naturalista and Guided tour 79 more species added for the year and 67 of them lifers