Traditionally the middle Saturday of the birding festival is the busiest as many birders expect it to be peak migration. The talk was the park would be closed once 750 vehicles were in the gate. I’m not sure it reached that number but It was packed. We made sure to get up and in the park for just after 5am. We walked to the tip as we have done most mornings so I can warm up a bit from the chilly mornings. There were some migrants in but still nothing like a fall out or even multiple birds of one species. This has been such a strange, late year. It was bound to happen sometime. More people than birds.
Still, birders were happy to look and look again at the same species or the same bird multiple times and of course there is a big social element to this festival. There are some birders we only see at Pelee every year and so it is a time to catch up with old friends and meet new people. Most of us recognize names from ebird lists and Discord so it is always nice to meet new people that you feel like you already know. While we walked 11 km of trails the rest of the day we added only 4 new birds for the year, Yellow-throated Vireo, Swainson’s Thrush, Bay-breasted Warbler, and Black Tern. We had some nice looks at Red-headed Woodpecker and went to see the Yellow-breasted Chat again.
We also stopped to take pictures of the celebrity Eastern-Screech Owl that is on everyone’s checklist as it has chosen to nest right along the main road of the park so that almost every birder, I assume, will have it on their list or a picture of it.
Eastern Screech-Owl
In order to see the Black Terns we had to stop along the east shore of Hillman Marsh where we had distant views of them feeding over the water. Our next stop was one of our favourite places, Kopegaron Woods. This Carolinian Forest has a boardwalk meandering through a wetland and forest of large trees. There were reports of Summer and Scarlet Tanager but we only managed to see the male Scarlet Tanager.
Scarlet Tanager still molting from its winter/juvenile plumage of green
I was super hungry having not eaten much and we had walked the the usual 15km so after Kopegaron we headed to Taylor’s Seafood for perch. It was sooooo yummy that I could eat it every day.
Taylor’s 12 perch plus 2 fries – Yes we shared!!! Although I was hungry enough to eat all 12!
May 10
Mother’s Day is also a busy day in the Park but most birders opt to not go in or just do the tip first thing and get out by noon as many families arrive to enjoy Mother’s Day picnics and hikes. This year we went to the tip but no birds again and then opted to stay in the park for most of the day sticking with the seasonal paths that are less used by the other visitors. We only added American Pipit at the tip and no other new species. We managed to see 77 species in the park so there were birds around but again, not the quantity we expect at Pelee. The weather was lovely and we covered the usual trails for 15 km and chatted with birders we met along the way so the number of birds did not matter. We opted to have dinner in as it is always busy at the restaurants. They were handing out complimentary bags of veggies at the festival food desk so we had a lovely fresh salad with our meal of American Goulash.
May 11
It was 6:15 when we got into the park but since it was Monday we still got into the visitor centre parking. There are fewer birders than normal so we even got onto the tram as there was no line-up. Many birders will not show up until they know that there has been a substantial migration flight. The tip, as it has been for the previous 8 days, was quiet with no discernible migration. We did a loop of the beach and interior paths and saw two Clay-coloured Sparrows in a tree but not much else so we then headed up to the Visitor’s Centre via the road and Post-Woods.
We stopped birding at noon because we were not seeing many birds and decided to go back to the cottage for a rest and showers. While we were at home reports of a co-operating Worm-eating Warbler kept coming in on the Rare Bird Alert. It was annoying us to the point where Jerry said we should just go and see if we could see it. We went back to the park and pulled into Park Orientation which was jammed with vehicles. There was a spot at the curb that was not a parking spot but I could see people with cameras and bins looking at something a few feet away. Jerry stopped the car, we both jumped out and ran over and had beautiful views of a Worm-eating Warbler. Just stellar views! The best we have ever seen in Ontario. Jerry snapped some pictures as it landed on a branch right beside him and then the other photographers and birders moved in around him. He took a few more photos and we jumped back in the car and left so others could use the space. it was a 2 minute twitch (chase)!
Worm-eating Warbler – Stellar Views!
We then headed to Hillman and saw some shorebirds but nothing new. We had some lovely looks at Short-billed Dowitchers allowing us to practice our identification skills between Long-billed and Short-billed.
Peregrine scattering the shorebirdsShort-billed DowitchersBlue-winged Teals
When we left Hillman I wanted to stop at Pelee Wings to rent some binoculars for our friends arriving the next day but they suggested we had to go to the Marsh store in the park to get the bins. While that was happening an Ash-throated Flycatcher had been found in the park near Dunes and we were now just 1.5km from there getting the bins so we had to go for that bird, a mega rarity from Arizona/Texas and an Ontario first for us. We walked over from the Marsh boardwalk taunting the bird to leave by taking our time but I’m a bit curious this year to see whether most rarities have to be chased right away or not. When we got to the beach it was not being seen and after some chasing from beach to seasonal path we found the group that had seen it and ended up with wonderful views from the beach. So far the three rarities we have “chased” later have all been seen.
Ash-throated Flycatcher – first for us in Ontario – should be in Arizona or Texas
We had originally planned to meet Dorlisa for dinner but she went for the Ash-throated and then we went so we were texting back and forth and eventually met for dinner at 7 instead of the original 5:30. Birds before anything else! We ate at Crave Bar and Grill – the food was very good – Jerry tried their Jackfruit Tacos and I had the Perch tacos and once again I forgot to take pictures. What is happening to my brain?
We added only two new birds to the Ontario year list on the 9th and both were rarities. This is really unprecedented for spring migration. A few migrants each day but nothing like the numbers we are used to. There are 3 billion less birds in North America since the 70’s and so each year the number migrating is less. Sometimes they bypass Pelee but all along the lakes it is the same story right now – few warblers. The talk now is it might not happen until Friday/Saturday and we leave on Saturday so we might have to make it a very late day on Saturday before heading home. We will see what tomorrow brings.
May 12
Still nothing at the tip. Ten days and not one day of a decent influx of birds. We did have our best looks at Ruddy Turnstones close to the birders instead of down at the tip.
Ruddy Turnstone
We walked the familiar trails and added nothing to the year list. There are birds but the same birds we have been seeing for the last few days. Our friends Marg and Lawson arrived at noon and spoiled us by bringing lunch. How nice it would be to have a personal chef LOL. Thanks Marg! Marg has been my editor extraordinaire for all the blogs I have posted from 2023 on which has been awesome for me as I hate making errors in these posts. I owe her bigly! We took them into the park and did the touristy things since this was their first visit to Pelee and their first “bird-watching.” We took the tram to the tip and walked out a ways to take the obligatory selfie at the southern most point of Ontario and the 42nd Parallel sign. The guys walked up the tower while Marg and I sat on a bench and caught up.
We took the tram back down to the visitor centre and walked through Tilden. It was birdy and they saw 12 species of warbler including a Red-headed Woodpecker. We had nice low looks at Black-throated Blue, Chestnut-sided, and a Cape May having a bath in one of the sloughs.
Chestnut-sided WarblerBlack-throated Blue WarblerBay-breasted WarblerProthonotary WarblerMagnolia WarblerBaltimore Oriole
Dinner was at Freddy’s and the Fattoush salad and Perch dinner were excellent as they always are. The forecast was for SW winds and rain in the night so maybe something will arrive if there is anything on the other side of the lake. Fingers and toes are crossed.
May 13
We got to the tip later than normal but there had been little there and still limited migration at the tip. Later it was obvious there were more birds that had come in further in the park. But the tip was pretty empty- Day 11. Places along eastern Lake Ontario had mini fallouts of warblers so they are finally starting to move. We took the tram both ways and walked the trails with Marg and Lawson seeing some different warblers from yesterday. They were getting better with using binoculars and getting better at spotting movement and seeing the bird. It was fun to share our passion with them. We saw a beautiful Scarlet Tanager with a bit of yellow/green still on it.
Scarlet TanagerProthonotary Warbler
We finally heard a Canada Warbler but did not find it in the tangle of leaves and branches. We spent a bit of time in areas that Wilson’s Warblers were being heard and seen but we could not hear the song or see one. At noon we took them back to the cottage so they could head home and we had some lunch and a short rest and then headed back in for another walk around Tilden. It was still quite birdy and while I was looking at an area I sensed movement beside me and saw an American Woodcock beside me that had walked across the path and then went into the forest leaves. So wonderful to have that experience. It was 6 inches from my foot.
American Woodcock
We saw another Red-headed Woodpecker and watched that for awhile. We have seen one almost every day. We talked about going to Hillman Marsh and then back into the park to try for Whip-poor-wills but both of us were tired and just needed a bit of a break from it all. There are clearly birds in the park and we can bird tomorrow and hopefully catch up with a few of the species we are still missing.
May 14
Oh it was a very good day! The trickle of birds everyday and some substantial input through the night made birding very enjoyable with multiples of most warbler species finally seen. I decided to try for the 100 species in a day again. We opted not to go to the tip but started at the top of the park. Then a report came from Hillman that a Willet and a Wilson’s Phalarope were being seen so we opted to drive over and at least get those two rarities that would also be year birds for us. When we arrived people were searching for the Phalarope but the Willet was easy to see. We scoped for a while and then opted to head back to the park. We passed Jean on the way in and just as we were driving out Jean called to say the Phalarope had just been found so we did a u-turn and retraced our steps to find a distant but nice Wilson’s Phalarope. I got Jean her Prairie Warbler and she repaid with this bird. That is the birding karma I talk about in action.
WilletWilson’s Phalarope
We returned to the park and continued birding down the west and east sides of the park managing to add a few birds and getting nice views of others we have seen. I have not been carrying my camera for a week now and instead am taking all the video you see on my Iphone 16 Pro. I am quite pleased with it and while the birds have to be really close the quality seems to be better than my camera was. At least for showing it on a blog like this.
OvenbirdBay-breasted WarblerCape May WarblerCape May Warbler
We finally tracked down a Green Heron at DeLaurier and as always Jerry took some very nice pictures of it.
Green Heron
We also heard the Wilson’s Warbler a few times but did not get eyes on the bird. I imagine we will see it at some point. And we also added a Yellow-bellied Flycatcher to the Ontario list.
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher
When we had exhausted the Pelee Park trails and we were also exhausted we headed out of the park to get some well deserved Mexican food. I managed a picture of the guacamole at Salsa Caliente but can you believe that I forgot to take a picture of my yummy enchiladas? How does this happen? I have birder brain and hunger takes over LOL. Anyway, trust me when I say it looked and tasted delicious! While waiting for our food I put together a trip report from the day so I could see what my species count was. I had seen 90 species at that point.
After dinner we headed to Kopegaron Woods because I thought I had a good chance to add a few birds there that I did not get in the park. Sure enough there were Swainson’s Thrush and then a Rock Pigeon from the farms outside the woods. A bit further along the boardwalk we saw a Hairy Woodpecker. Now I was at 93. A few minutes later Merlin suggested it had heard a Rusty Blackbird. We had not added this bird for the year yet so we retraced our steps and actively checked every blackbird we were seeing. Jerry spotted something a bit different and we both got on it with bins. I confirmed it had a yellow eye and we had our Rusty. #94. It took a bit to get a picture as it was back in tangles but Jerry managed a record shot.
Rusty Blackbird
When we reached the end of the loop I opted to start walking the loop again just to see if the Prothonotary had appeared. I had missed seeing it in the Park and it would be a nice bird to add for the 100. As I started down the boardwalk I saw a couple with cameras raised and as I got close they showed me an Eastern Screech Owl sitting in its hole sunning. #95 as the one in the Park had not been visible.
Eastern Screech-Owl (red morph)
I was getting excited. We still had to go back to Hillman and we planned to walk the Couture Dyke at dusk for rails so I was getting more confident by the minute that I would hit the 100. Jerry took some owl pics, we checked further along the boardwalk but no Prothonotary and so we headed out of the woods to find a group at the entrance with bins and cameras raised – a Golden-winged Warbler! #96 and still two places to visit.
Golden-winged Warbler
When we arrived at Hillman there were plenty of birds in the marsh and we started scoping right away. I knew I had missed Green-winged Teal earlier so I quickly found those for #97 and then a Greater Yellowlegs for #98. Merlin suggested a Black-bellied Plover had called but we could not find any as we scoped. I found two Ruddy Turnstones for #99. We took turns scanning and suddenly Jerry said he had a Semi-palmated Plover! He tried to get it in the scope and after a few minutes he had it #100 for the day! Woohoo! And it was a year bird for us too. We then added two more species for 102 and one more stop.
Semipalmated Plover
Couture Dyke is a walk around a huge marsh land that we visited last year. It is a good place to listen for rails. We ended up hearing Least Bittern, perhaps the one from last week at the tip and a Virginia Rail. While these were not birds we needed to add to our Ontario List they did get added to our day list along with an Osprey and a Field Sparrow giving us a total for the day of 106 species seen! I was more than happy with that and while I was tired I was not exhausted the way I usually am after these 100 day adventures.
Yellow Warbler NestCanada Geese
May 15
With the ups and downs of this migration it was no surprise to once again have a quiet tip with only a few migrants. We did manage to see a possible Acadian Flycatcher. Flycatchers can be a challenge to ID and so we will wait to hear what others think of the photos taken. It is easiest to identify them when they are singing as their songs are all unique but many look very similar and that causes difficulty in the field with different lighting, distance etc.
Acadian Flycatcher
With it being our last full day in the park we were not too worried about trying to find the few birds we have not seen this migration. Those left we know we can see elsewhere in the province if we want to do that. Instead we met up with Judy and Cindy and spent a delightful few hours walking the trail chatting, laughing and occasionally birding. There were still birds in the park but the warblers were up high in the trees and so there was little incentive for us to crane our necks to see warblers that yesterday had been seen beautifully at eye level.
Wild TurkeyBlackburnian Warbler
Just after noon we decided to leave the park and headed over to Hillman to see a White-faced Ibis that was being seen. As we walked down the path a couple leaving told us that the birds had all flushed, including the Ibis. Oh no! but we continued on and when we arrived at the water the Ibis was just flying back in and landed quite close to us.
White-faced Ibis
We helped a few people see shorebirds in the scope and then opted to call it a day. We had dishes to clean and things to pack at the cottage. We had a nice meal at Freddy’s and spent the evening relaxing. Usually, on our way home we stop at Rondeau but we are going to go to the Tip in the morning to just see if this heavy migration that is forecast actually happens here.
May 16
Well there was migration in the night but the majority of the birds missed the tip and landed further up in the park. We checked out the tip and as it was quiet and rain was forecast we opted to say our goodbyes to the regulars Keith, Jeremy, Cindy and Judy and head for home. We arrived home before noon and the news from Pelee was of a Kirtland’s Warbler that Keith found around 10am. Oh well, that is the way it goes, you get some, you miss some. We were happy to be home after 2 weeks of continual birding. Pelee is always great no matter when you go or how long you stay. While we felt the quantity of birds was less, the quality of our interactions was fantastic this year. We had so many wonderful, up close interactions with these jewels that briefly stop in our area.
Northern Parula
We spent 1 day at Rondeau, 13 at Pelee. We went to the tip 11 mornings and walked a total of 167km over the 14 days. The day I got the 100 species we walked 16.6km. The cottage we rent cost $2,200 for the two weeks and our meals out cost around $400 plus gas there and back. We used electric every day in the park. We added 90 birds to the Ontario Bird list for the year and 58 to the Year List of Birds. So at the end of this trip we had seen 223 in Ontario this year and 582 birds seen for the World List this year.
The numbers of birders choosing to go to Pelee has dropped over the last few years with many suggesting it is too packed with crowds but the Park is very large and while there are crowds around the celebrity rarities for a short time most of your time at Pelee can be completely alone on the trails. For those that like to socialize and meet friends you can hang around the more popular trails but there are countless opportunities to be alone too. Hopefully this blog gives you a little taste of what awaits at Pelee. It is a very special place…until next time…
Yes, it is finally that favourite time of year for all birders, no, not Christmas, Spring Migration! We anticipate and dream of trees dripping with warblers and rarities at our feet but usually the actual experience is quite different. We are however, easily mollified with the odd precious, beautiful looks at a few warblers where a dreary, cold day becomes “the best day ever”.
This will be our first two week trip to Pelee not having to chase birds. Before our Big Years we only spent 3-4 days at Pelee each year and the last two years have been grueling marathon two week chases for many birds. This year we can truly relax and just enjoy the birding experience. And so true to our “relaxed” birding instead of our normal 4:30 am departure we slept in and left at 5:45 LOL! The laziness is kicking in already!
We stopped in Chatham-Kent on the way, which is our usual practice. Rondeau Provincial Park, Keith McLean Conservation Area and Blenheim Sewage Lagoons all have migrating birds stopping in and we were sure we would pick up some Ontario year birds there.
Shortly after we arrived at Keith McLean we saw a bird we did not immediately recognize, which does not happen often anymore, we know Ontarian species. Initially we said Grasshopper Sparrow? but it did not fit that, too big, different bill, It was bright with fresh feathers but we could not place it. I sent a pic to Steve and he could not really tell from our horrible back of the camera shot but confirmed it was not Grasshopper. After looking at a few more of Jerry’s pictures and putting it to Merlin it suggested a female Bobolink! Of course! This is a female species we have struggled with before and I’m not sure why it does not seem to stick with us. Maybe this time?
Bobolink Female
We ended up also adding Marsh Wren, Dunlin and White-crowned Sparrow to our list and Jerry was happy to be taking pictures that did not require blowing out the exposure to compensate for dark rain forest. We finished the hike circling the property and headed around the corner to Rondeau Provincial Park.
The Park was really quiet, we knew it would be having seen reports over the last few days but Yikes! it was QUIET. We managed to add Gray Catbird, Northern Yellow Warbler, Baltimore Oriole and Palm Warbler. Then we opted to move on to Blenheim Sewage Lagoons.
We had so much fun walking through a sea of Tree Swallows as they flew back and forth feeding over the grass and water of the lagoons. We added Cliff, Bank, and Northern Rough-winged Swallow to our list. Then we scoped through many shorebirds to find a Baird’s Sandpiper that had been reported previously.
It was another hour drive to our cottage at Pelee to “check in”. Once we were unpacked and sorted out a bit we opted to head into the park. We needed to renew our park pass. We buy the family pass as it lets you use the fast lane that opens a gate for you instead of waiting in line behind people who are asking questions and buying passes. It is worth it to us to use this rather than saving on the senior rate. The person manning the booth happily let us know that they have extended all those passes until November of this year so we did not need to buy a pass this year! How cool is that? Thank you Point Pelee National Park!
There are so many places to go to in Pelee but I picked the spot that most of the reports had been coming from – Tilden Woods. It is generally the go-to if you are short on time and usually has the most birds. Just along the trail a short distance is a water slough and we stopped to see what someone was photographing. It turned out to be a Lincoln’s Sparrow and as we watched and Jerry took pictures a Northern Waterthrush flew in and then a bright Yellow Warbler and after that a Swamp Sparrow. They were not all new birds but they were right in front of us offering great views of all of them.
Lincoln’s SparrowYellow WarblerSwamp Sparrow
We moved on and chatted with people we knew along the way eventually ending up at a slough off the seasonal footpath that we had been told had a Louisiana Waterthrush. We waited a bit and suddenly saw a Waterthrush that looked quite a bit whiter and cleaner than the Northern. It was very far back and behind an assortment of twigs, shrubs and broken branches. Many photographers were trying to get pictures as I and another birder called out its location. Going left on the log, now behind the tree, oops coming right now, in the open on the black log. You get the picture? While we were mostly on the Waterthrush, a Prothonotary Warbler dropped in and a Blue-winged Warbler teased us all with stellar views in front of our faces. An Eastern Phoebe also started feeding at the back. We were there about 45 minutes helping people that arrived see the bird and trying to take video and pictures of the stunning Blue-winged Warbler as well. These kinds of views are why people come to Pelee.
There are many years when you “see” a bird with glimpses behind logs, peeks through leaves, but the views we were getting from all the birds were extremely good. We did eventually move on as a group and worked our way down the path. We had been talking to a few couples who were trying to get their 100th species to get a Pelee pin and a few people walking past overheard the conversation. Minutes later the woman rushed back to us to say they had seen a Hooded Warbler back where we had just come from. We all rushed back en masse and had great looks at a Hooded Warbler that was racing up and down a tree trunk, not the usual way we see a Hooded at Pelee.
We once again moved towards the parking and along the way saw a Black-and-white Warbler, some Baltimore Orioles and heard our first Wood Thrush. It was now almost 8 and light was fading fast. We were more than happy with our 20 species for the day to add to our Ontario year list.
May 3
It was a cold morning, 8C feeling like 4C and because we are keeners we were in the park at 5:10am when it was still dark. It was a full moon and we hoped we might hear a Whip-poor-will on our walk to the tip. We did not but others saw one on the path and heard one in another area before we got there. Oh well, not a necessary bird to hear or see. It was a beautiful sunrise.
When it was light enough to discern what was out on the tip we added Black-bellied Plover and a cute, tiny Piping Plover to our year list.
With no warblers dripping off the trees we walked back towards the Visitor Center birding along the way and chatting with many people that follow our blog or we have met on previous years to Pelee. To be honest, with the lack of birds it was more socializing than birding. We met up with Amy and enjoyed a walk through Tilden together. The sun came out a bit and things warmed up and we managed to add 7 more birds to the Ontario year list with great views of Northern Waterthrush and Blue-winged Warbler.
Northern WaterthrushNorthern House WrenHermit ThrushOvenbirdBlue-winged WarblerBlue-winged Warbler
We left the park around 2 and got back to the cottage to rest a bit, drink water, and update pictures for a couple of hours. Then went to and early dinner at Salsa Caliente our fav Mexican food restaurant in Leamington where you get authentic Mexican at inexpensive prices. I was so hungry I forgot to take pictures. The plan had been to head to Hillman Marsh but we we were sooo tired! Showing our age! Judging from the migration forecast and favourable south winds I suspected that the next day would be very good so it was better to be well-rested for the “good day” .
May 4
Oh, it was a good day! Not those dripping off trees day but more birds finally in the park and sunshine and warmth as well. Lots of happy, smiling birders moving from sighting to sighting along the paths. I decided to try for the 100 species in a day pin. Well the pin is 100 species between May 1 and May 18 but I like to challenge myself to 100 in a day. The rule is within the Pelee birding circle which included Leamington and Hillman Marsh. We were in the park at 6am. There were not many new warblers at the tip but I was intent on counting everything we saw, which is the only way to get to the 100. We were in the park at 6am and stayed for almost 9 hours seeing 69 species. The highlights being a few new warblers at the DeLaurier Trail. We had nice eye level views of Cape May, Northern Parula and Chestnut-sided Warblers.
But at 69 species I knew I was in trouble and not likely to get the rest at Hillman Marsh but I was not giving up so off we went. We stopped along the road and then at the East Beach Access to Hillman where we met up with Paul and Joanne and added 6 more species for the day. At Hillman Marsh we added another 15. At the time I actually did not know how many species I had because I had not even finalized the Park list and figured there might be birds that I had missed adding, still I knew I was close but not over 100. Shortly after we had left DeLaurier there was a report of a Prairie Warbler being seen and so after we finished at Hillman we opted to go back and see if it was still there and add a few more species. When we arrived Jean, John and Victoria told us they had been waiting 2 hours trying to re-find it with no success. We walked the boardwalk and saw an Orange-crowned Warbler to add to the list and decided to hang around a bit longer. Shortly after we found a Least Flycatcher. The others had left and after 15 minutes we decided to leave as well. There were two choices to leave as it is a circle trail. Jerry started towards the shorter, south route and I said why not take the north longer route? Maybe some more new birds. As we walked on a birder coming our way stopped to tell us a Prairie Warbler was ahead on the boardwalk! We rushed for the first time on this trip and sure enough the Prairie Warbler was feeding in small trees right beside us on the boardwalk. The rest of the birders watching were on the far side of the bird. I got eyes on the bird, had some good looks and called Jean to let her know it was still being seen. Then I posted to What’s App as the new location had not been posted and it was quite a way from the original spot.
Of course it flew back and out of sight shortly after. Jean and others arrived and we waited. I felt bad that the bird had left, I know I don’t have control but I want everyone to have a happy ending. After 15 minutes Jean saw a bird further back and we all got on it to find out it was the Prairie! Many high fives and hugs! A super happy ending to the day. It was after 7 and the light was dimming but I did have another hour maybe to add more birds but I was DONE! Birded non-stop for 13 hours, walked 15.6kms, I was happy to call it a day and get my 100 pin for birds seen over the 2 full days we had been at Pelee. I knew that number was over the 100. We headed back to the cottage and I finally put all the lists in to find I had ended up with 96 species for the day and had 107 species for the two days. Good enough for the pin and if there is another day with lots of birds I might give the 100 another try.
May 5
The forecast was for rain starting around noon so we knew we might not have a long day to bird. We were in the park at 6:30am – do you notice how each day has gotten later and later? The park has not been as busy as it has in the past as the weather and lack of birds has kept people from coming so we are not having to rush in early to get parking at the Visitor Center. That will change as the weekend nears and the bird numbers increase. We took the tram to the tip thinking we would take our scope and then forgot to get it out of the car. No problem, there was not much to see by the time we got down there anyway. Again, no birds dripping off the trees. A FOY (first of the year) Red-eyed Vireo was well-photographed by a fairly large group that had deemed it a Tennessee Warbler until I corrected the ID.
Red-eyed VireoWhite-eyed Vireo
There are many new birders out at Pelee and I think many species get misidentified like that and put on ebird in error. Certainly as a newer birder I would never have spoken up to dispute an identification but I feel pretty confident to do so now. The highlight for many at the tip might have been the flock of Avocets that quickly flew down the side of the beach. We, and many others were looking into the woods with our backs to the water but I noticed a few people coming onto the beach raising their bins and cameras to the water behind and spun around in time to see them whiz by.
We left the tip fairly quickly and walked up the west side (in the raging wind) and found nothing new (not surprisingly). Can you tell it was Jerry that wanted to walk up the west side? And that I always follow the birding rule that birds are on the opposite side to the direction the wind is coming from?
We walked Woodland, then Tilden and spent much time catching up with fellow birders, Greg who we had met in Costa Rica, Barry and Dave from Hamilton, Grant and Lindsay. It has been rewarding hearing from people using these blogs to help plan their own trips to birding destinations. It was one of the reasons I opted to put as much detail into them as possible. We ended up only adding another 5 species to the Ontario list. We opted to beat the rain and headed back to the cottage before the rain started and spent the afternoon writing this blog and getting pictures added through a very slow internet.
For the non-birders I should clarify about the “lists”. Our year list right now stands at 557 species seen because we went to Costa Rica. And in Costa Rica we saw some of the birds we also see here in Ontario like Baltimore Orioles and Chestnut-sided Warblers so my “Year list” is different from my “Ontario List” this year and so now we are at home we are working on our “Ontario List” although many of these birds are also added to the Year list of course. I also have a Point Pelee Birding Circle List that is the one I can use to track the species for the 100 pin. Our Ontario list is at 183 species and the Point Pelee Birding Circle is at 118 species seen. All of this is kept straight by ebird – for free! It makes life infinitely better!
May 6
We opted not to go to the tip as the forecast for migration was low and instead started at the top of the park just in the gate and worked our way down the west side stopping at all the small access areas along the way. We would park the car, do a loop along the seasonal paths, return to the car, drive to the next area and do a loop there. It was still relatively quiet but we did see birds that we had already added. Northwest Beach was the birdiest and we spent some time doing a loop. We had nice views of a White-eyed Vireo and a few other warblers and then decided to head down to the tip because a Cerulean Warbler had been reported. It is a warbler not always seen well. Hundreds of birders saw it in the morning and there were only a few people around looking for it. We heard some intel that it had been seen out along the beach but was going north. We opted to split up with Jerry going onto the beach and me staying in the interior where it had last been noted. After a bit I checked out onto the beach and Jerry was way south and 3 women were way north with large lenses up taking pictures of something. I decided to check it out. They could have been just photographing a Gnatcatcher but it was, of course, the Cerulean! I took a look, called Jerry and then took an Iphone pic in case he did not make it in time. The bird had flown back further by the time Jerry got there but he did get some pictures before the bird moved deeper into the woods along the path.
We walked out to the tip after that because after 10am you can. Before 10am there is a line that humans cannot cross to allow the migrating birds time to rest without being flushed by humans and dogs. After 10 you can walk out and most birders do their utmost not to get close the birds. Tourists, not so much. Jerry took some pictures.
Friends Angela and Michael from Hamilton joined us a bit later and we went back to try and see the Cerulean again. With no other reports we started walking north on the path figuring it would be a long shot to re find it but soon a birder coming toward us told us they had been watching it for about 20 minutes just up the trail. He was kind enough to take us back and show us the spot but the bird was no longer there. We continued to walk north and shortly after I saw some movement in the shrubs and it was the CERULEAN! It is crazy to think you can re find these birds in the vastness of the woods. It was right along the path and we all had great views of it.
Cerulean Warblers – two viewings
We had a nice walk through the park adding a few more birds along the way and then headed to Hillman Marsh for shorebirds. There were American Avocets! Shortly after we arrived a Peregrine came through hunting and lifted all the birds and everything was gone. We chatted with people, waited and watched a few birds and left to go to dinner when none of the shorebirds returned.
American AvocetBirds scattering as the Peregrine flew through
Dinner was our fav Mexican food and again I forgot to get a picture! After dinner we opted to go try for the Whip-poor-wills and heard American Woodcocks but no Whips.
May 7
We went to the tip, no surprise LOL. You just do not want to miss birds so everyone goes. The same birds were on the tip and things were quiet so Jerry wandered off down the beach as I chatted with all the birders around the scopes. A few minutes later he called me, one of the few places there is signal, and just said “Least Bittern”. I hung up said “Least Bittern” loudly to people around me and we all left en mass. It was high up in a tree on a narrow path and a few hundred people were trying to see it. It is a very good bird to see like this as it is usually tucked away in a marsh were you are more likely to just hear it.
Least Bittern
After the excitement of the Least Bittern people found a Scarlet Tanager, Red-eyed Vireo, Warbling Vireos and lots of the same species we had seen before.
We eventually left the tip to walk up through the woods but things were quiet. A few warblers here and there. When we came out to Woodland Trail a young boy let us know he had just seen a Chat and so we walked slowly further down the path paying more attention. I saw the underside of a bird hanging on a branch just above the ground with a white underbelly and i could see some white. I had my bins on it and called the others to take a look and it turned out to be a CHAT! Woohoo! Another great bird. We all had good looks and another few birders close by saw it and then it was gone. I reported it later to the Visitor Center hike leaders and others re-found the bird a few times. Jerry did not get a picture but we did see a lovely co-operative Rose-breasted Grosbeak.
Rose-breasted Grosbeak
Angela and Michael headed off to check out Delaurier and we decided to go back to the Tip as a Yellow-throated Warbler, a rarity, had been reported earlier. We went out on the beach and no one was on the bird. There were a lot of birders milling around and looking into the trees. Way down the beach I saw a man waving his arms over his head in the universal language of “its over here”. Unless he was just trying to get his wife’s attention LOL. I yelled to the group to head down the beach and we all had spectacular looks at the Yellow-throated Warbler.
Yellow-throated Warbler
We still walked our regular 10-11kms but saw less birds and decided fairly early at 4:00 to call it a day and not head to Hillman Marsh. Of course I was just out of the shower and reports came in of a Black-headed Gull and then a White-faced Ibis that had arrived at Hillman. Sheesh! But both of those birds we have seen in Ontario and so I opted not to chase. This is the chill, non-urgent birding year so limited chasing. Maybe we will still come across them organically in the next week.
May 8
Guess what was at the tip this morning? The Black-headed Gull! Not the great views they got at Hillman but we at least got to see it flying around with the Bonaparte’s Gull. It takes a bit of patience as you are looking at 30 gulls and waiting to see one with black under the wings. It did eventually land and I took a quick view in the scope of someone to confirm the sighting. So there you go! Not chasing, in this circumstance, paid off and we saw one of the birds anyway.
There were definitely more birds at the tip but not much variety and all species we had already seen. Still you have to check the whole area in case you are missing something. The numbers of birders have increased substantially and the beach is very crowded with people and cameras. You will think a group of 20 people all taking pictures means a great warbler only to find they are photographing a Kinglet or a Gnatcatcher. Nothing against these very cute birds but there are MANY of them in the park. And yes, I understand that they are lifers to maybe many of these birders, just pointing out what it is like traveling the beach trying to find anything rarer.
It was Angela and Michael’s last day so we were trying to help get them both to 100 for their pins. Angela hit the 100 before we left the tip but Michael took until lunchtime. A Brewster’s Warbler, a hybrid between a Golden-winged and a Blue-winged Warbler, was reported on Redbud and even though it is not countable as a species many people want to see them in case they are ever added. We joined many other people and eventually had some very nice views. The pictures, not so much.
Brewster’s Warbler – Cross between Golden-winged/Blue-winged Warbler
We then headed through Tilden and finally saw our first Black-throated Blue Warbler, one of my favourites. Jerry managed to get pictures of a Louisiana Waterthrush that is very similar to the Northern Waterthrush. The clear white throat with no streaks makes it a Louisiana over Northern.
Louisiana Waterthrush
We heard that there were Yellow-breasted Chats giving great views at Cactus Field so we headed up to that area even though we had seen one yesterday. You can never get enough of looks at Chats. The birds were singing (loud burbles, rattles and clucks) and then we saw the two chasing each other through the cedars and for a bit one posed on a branch for us. In our 13 years at Pelee we have never had looks like this year.
Yellow-breasted Chat
We said goodbye to Angela and Michael and headed over to Hillman Marsh to see if there were any new shorebirds. We added Short-billed Dowitchers and then decided to get pizza in town.
Short-billed DowitcherGull bullying a Dunlin to drop its food
Cattle Egrets had been reported near Hillman but they were gone by the time we went by so I was watching the fields and lawns as we drove to town for the small white herons. While we waited for the pizza a report came in of the egrets just 10 minutes away and on the road I had just carefully scanned. Obviously not well enough! We ate a few pieces of pizza and then headed back and stopped and saw 3 of them off the road in a wetland area. We had to next stop for milk on the way to the cottage and while I was waiting for Jerry a report came in of a Black-necked Stilt just 15 minutes away so really not a chase LOL just a drive over. I didn’t get the right directions into google but we did find the pond after some help from Discord and sure enough a Black-necked Stilt was wading along the shore. It flew to another pond minutes after we arrived but Jerry managed a few pictures before we went back to the cottage. A long day, but a good day.
In the last 7 days we have walked 79.2 km or 122,537 steps and we have added 70 birds to our Ontario List and 46 birds to our Year list. Whew! One more week to go and south winds forecast tonight!
When we left Canto del Bosque we planned to visit the Salitre Savannahs for some speciality birds like an Ocellated Crake and a Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch but as always we would be only arriving after 10 so not the best time to see birds. In the town of Buenos Aires before we headed up the hills we finally had the chance to get pictures of a Tropical Mockingbird. We had seen one at a distance back where we saw the sloths but it was nice to get pictures and nice views.
Tropical Mockingbird
It was already hot and dry and dusty as we drove the rocky road up through the mountains and stopped at various spots with likely habitat and where others had suggested they had the birds. We used playback for the Crake but got no responses and then checked all the grass areas for the Grass-Finch but again, nothing. When we first got out of the car Jerry realized he did not have his hat and as we went back over our past days we realized he must have left it in the pizza place the night before. It was too bad we had not noticed earlier but it is just a hat and thankfully it was the last days of the trip. So I gave him my hat to wear and I put on some sunscreen because he as BCC (Basal Cell Carcinoma) and has already had a few surgeries for removing it. The heat built, the grasslands were quiet. We did manage to add two lifers, Pale-breasted Spinetail and a Gray-crowned Yellowthroat. No visuals but the calls were continuing and heard by both of us over and over. We have heard both of these birds at the past lodges for short times and opted not to add them always hoping we would see them elsewhere but now as we end the trip we have added them. With the heat getting to us we drove slowly back down and headed to our hotel in San Isidora.
On the way we hit rain in the afternoon and had to drive through a bit of torrential rain strong enough that Jerry pulled off for a minute because we could not see the road. It eased just a bit and we decided to continue very slowly to get through the worst of it. The weather seemed to be shifting a bit and rain and clouds seem to be happening every afternoon now. The start of the rainy season.
While we were checking in at Hotel De Sur Jerry missed seeing a step and took a pretty hard fall near the reception desk. He hit hard on his elbow and knee but tough guy that he is bounced up declaring he was fine. We had a good laugh once we realized he was not injured. OMGosh! we do not need anything to happen before we finish our trip. Our rooms were not ready, we were an hour early, but they sat us down with complimentary smoothies while we waited.
We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting by the pool with a beer and making final plans for getting home. We ordered Guac and it came with these yummy plaintain chips that we both gobbled up. Jerry thought he might swim but then never managed the energy to do so. There is no doubt that we are tired. The heat takes the energy out of you. As is always the case near the end of a trip, we started talking about home and what we needed to do when we get back. I want to keep the Pura Vida feeling going when I get back. We had a nice dinner, the food as always was very good and we turned in early with one last birding adventure planned for tomorrow.
We were up early, had breakfast at 6:30 and were heading out to the car with our luggage when a medium size bird with a very, very long tail flew over us! Fork-tailed Flycatcher! I knew they were in this area and had contemplated driving around this morning to see if we could find one and here it was over top of our car at the exact moment we needed it to be. Unfortunately, Jerry had suitcases in his hands and could not get a picture in the brief seconds we saw it but a lifer non the less! A great start to our last birding day. After sitting the usual 10 minutes to try and get the car in gear we headed to a place that Volcano Junco’s frequented. One hour later we turned onto a relatively nice gravel road by Costa Rican standards and within a few feet we saw 5 Juncos with the bright yellow eye. Lifer number 2 for the day! We pulled off a bit further up and got out to immediately hear a Timberline Wren calling, Lifer number 3. This was beginning to feel epic! Then a short hike up the road brought us a first Sooty Thrush for Lifer #4. We enjoyed walking the area for a while and got good pictures and video of the Juncos and Thrush. We waited hoping to get pictures of the Wren but we only had brief looks of it in the shrubs and then finally decided to get back on the road.
Lifer Junco beside the car!Sooty ThrushVolcano JuncoLong-tailed Silky-flycatcherBlack-billed Nightingale-ThrushSooty Thrush
The next stop was Miriam’s Quetzel Restaurant on the Savarge road. When we turned down the road on the way in we heard and quickly saw a Spot-crowned Woodcreeper. We thought we had already seen it so we did not stop for a picture, the road was very narrow, but later realized that it was Lifer #5. Wow! Epic last day! The feeders at Miriam’s are famous to birders and tour groups that want to have close-up experiences with Hummingbirds and Tanagers. We ordered a Strawberry/Mango milkshake and headed for the deck to get our last close up views of Hummers, Toucanets, Tanagers and an assortment of other pretty birds.
It was nice to feel the trip coming full circle and ending seeing birds up close at feeders that we saw at the beginning of the trip. And after so many frustrating days for Jerry trying to take pictures it was nice that he could get some great shots of birds so close. I had taken so many videos of the Flowerpiercer trying to get it piercing the flower and finally managed it on this last day.
Eventually, the clouds and fog started to roll in so we left Miriam’s and then stopped shortly after at the Quetzal National Park and just walked the road and parking lot for a few minutes.
It was extremely busy as it is the start of the Costa Rican Easter holiday (Thursday) and the traffic going into the mountains was constant and slow. Thankfully the traffic going back to San Jose was almost nothing and our side of the road was empty.
It was bittersweet to be taking the final drive down from the mountains towards the city and highways. We were tired of living out of suitcases but also wishing we had still seen more lifers. All in all we had done really well I think, considering so much of our birding was on our own. And again, every Merlin list had 5-10 birds on it that we did not add because we could not figure out which calls were which or see the bird so the potential for more was probably there.
Will we come back? I think so as there are many birds we missed but not sure we are ready to have it be all about chasing. We kind of enjoyed just having whatever turned up turn up. Chasing ups the pressure to see it and increases the disappointment if you miss. We liked just being surprised with moments like the White-throated Crake suddenly calling while we walked by or the Orange-collared Manakin flying past and then appearing on a branch. Those are the moments we will remember, the Fork-tailed Flycatcher flying over as we walked to our car. Only seconds, no picture, but such a great memory.
We arrived at the Holiday Inn at the airport and arranged for them to come and pick up our rental. It actually made it the whole trip! LOL. Over a last plate of Patacones ( double fried plaintains) we talked about how we could have stayed a few more days with plenty of birds still to see at most of the lodges we stayed at and what we liked about this slower way to bird. We liked finding the birds ourselves, there was something missing when guides took us out and pointed birds out to us. Both of us were happy with how I had planned the trip and what we had seen. It was the right length of time, both of us were tired of living out of a suitcase and we had lost a bit of our enthusiasm for getting out to bird in the last few days. But it was nice to have that as a choice which we would not have had with a birding tour. We both agreed we were still not ready to go the fixed tour route, at least not in countries where it is easy to plan your own trip.
From the Holiday InnLast view
Our costs for the trip for airfare, hotels, car rental, guides, food/booze came to $15,000 for 23 days for 2 people. I think 21 day guided, everything included trips were running about $10-12,000 plus flights so $12-14,000 per person so we did it for close to half the price and still had the benefit of guides part of the time. If we went back I would use local guides from different areas to help us with what birds we were looking for. I took information from a few of them we met and used so that if we go back we can contact them.
In the end we saw 403 species in Costa Rica with 303 of them as LIFERS! in 23 days. How crazy is that?
The day started so wonderfully with the Manakins and getting the Yellow-billed Cotinga at the River but would our luck continue? Our next stop was the Rice Fields in Cuide Neilly and it was very hot when we arrived to park at the hospital beside the fields. There was a man collecting parking fees to watch the car and so we paid him and started to walk along the highway to look in the fields. We really should have had a scope for this location which is perhaps why mainly tour companies stop here. Without the scope it was difficult to make out much of any movement and what we saw were just the common species. We had hoped to see Fork-tailed Flycatcher here and some different Seedeaters. But it quickly was apparent that the time of day, almost noon, and with no scope we would not be successful. We also had cars honking at us along the highway which was very unusual for Costa Rica. We decided to cut our losses and carry on to the Wilson’s Botanical Gardens.
We spent a lovely afternoon in the Gardens encountering a bit of rain on and off. It was also super humid so wearing a rain jacket was not comfortable and we quickly became sweaty as we have been for the last week. We both had backpacks on as we had all our belongings being a travel day so it did not help us feel cooler. Still we persisted because BIRDS! We saw another new hummer – how is it possible that we are still adding hummingbirds? The Snowy-bellied Hummingbird was very cute to watch.
We also saw another Euphonia species – the Spot-crowned Euphonia. Both male and female were working on a nest on the trunk of a tree.
Spot-crowned Euphonia
Our last lifer at the gardens was a Streaked Saltator. And we saw two in a bit of a private situation! We had already seen 3 other Saltator species.
Streaked Saltator
In the hummingbird garden we found a Golden-winged Warbler land had fantastic looks at it. This species migrate to Canada to nest and our views are usually high up in trees. it was still difficult to get a great picture as it moved fast.
Then things took a turn. When we went to leave the car would not go into gear. The problem had been escalating this past week but it had never been a problem during the day only in the morning on first start. We sat there for 20 minutes and I got a really bad feeling. I called the rental company and they responded immediately giving us some tips and telling us it was the selector rather than the transmission so we followed the tips and it worked! Thank goodness! We only had 3 more days with this car. We made it to the lodge only 10 minutes away. Canto del Bosque as a rental is relatively new and the cheapest accommodations of this trip at $104 for 2 nights with $10 breakfast per person. They have cute little cabins that are basic, no air conditioning, but totally fine for birders just needing a bed to fall into at the end of hot days.
We did find out they would not be serving dinner so we would have to go into town another 10 minutes away and at the end of a long hot day it seemed like so much effort LOL. Still this was the first lodge where we needed to dine elsewhere and it was not a big deal. We picked a restaurant that seemed fairly new and tried to figure out the menu using google translate. It turned out to be a “Chinese food” place so we ordered rice and chop suey and some fish. It was not anything like our Chinese food LOL. The rice and chop suey seemed to have the same kind of brown gravy and same veggies so basically the same dishes. But it was tasty, hot and the portions were big so we made an appreciable dent in it with a bit to take home with us. When we got back to the cabin Jerry went to download his pictures and it would not work, I tried with my pictures, it would not work either. We assumed the cord was not working, the connection had been acting up the last week so we would not have pictures to go through until we went home. While Jerry was trying to get his camera to download I was busy cleaning up hundreds of ants that had arrived while we were out for dinner because there was a granola bar wrapper in my backpack pocket that I had not thrown out. Crap!
Definitely needed to change the direction of the day! Still all in all we have had a trip so far free from any large issues and there always has to be some days where things have to be off. We heard a Common Pauraque calling as soon as it got dark. We have not stayed awake long enough to check for any owls for the last few lodges.
Woke up at our usual 4:30 and listened to the Gray-cowled Wood-Rails calling and then the other birds started. We got up and went out around 5:30 to walk the grounds and the road to see what we could hear and see. We added another Oropendola species with the Crested Oropendola, and Blue-headed Parrots. We saw 51 species in the two hour walk and had nice views of many other species.
Crested OropendolaBlue-headed Parrot in early morning “BLUE” lighting!
We headed back in time for breakfast and had the typical Costa Rican breakfast. I didn’t even take pictures as I am sure you are all tired of the same breakfast plate, but yummy as always. We are loving the morning coffee here. At home I have not drank coffee for years as it used to give me the jitters and sweats but this coffee has not bothered me at all. Will Canadian coffee be the same or different? We will have to see if we continue to drink it back home.
I had a note on my lists with a place to go and see a few species of Manakins and many other Antbirds about one hour away but there was no knowledge about how to access this red dot in the middle of a forest. I did some research before we left but didn’t find out anything and I should have been proactive and asked the guides we had encountered along the way. Because I did not have details and the car issues we had been having we made the decision not to venture out to that location.
After breakfast we talked to the owners for a bit and learned about this generational family farm and their new adventure in lodging and a restaurant. We went up a viewpoint and while we were up there chatting we got another lifer, a Bran-coloured Flycatcher! Still finding new birds!
Bran-coloured Flycatcher
We then attempted to go to a birding hotspot close by and it took 10 mins to get the car in gear, and then we were off to Fincas Cantaros. Finca Cantaros Environmental Association was founded by Lilly Briggs, a Canadian and works to foster environmental education in communities to improve lives. The forest has and is being restored with more purchases of adjoining lands and native plantings. There is also a connection to Birds Canada through the installation of a Motus tower to monitor migration and birds with transmitters. The birding was a bit quiet but they were banding birds and so we watched that for a while. The focus is on introducing women to banding and to get kids to be proud of their heritage in Costa Rica. Donate from Canada (they are a registered charity) and/or visit if you visit Costa Rica. Lilly’s vision is fantastic.
It had been very noisy trying to bird in some areas because of the cicada’s that are out and mating. There sound can drown out all the bird calls making it difficult to hear anything. We found this one trapped in the nets put up for bird banding.
While we were there we met a Swarovski representative at the bird banding station who showed us the latest AX VISIO binoculars with a camera, live views, help with finding and identifying birds. They were crazy cool! She also showed us a heat thermal camera. There is some awesome technology coming to help birders bird better.
Common Tody-Flycatcher not impressed to be banded!Rufous-breasted WrenYellow-faced Grassquit
We found another new hummer in the Verbena while we were there, the Garden Emerald .
Garden Emerald
We let the car warm up again and it worked fine on the way back. Once back at the Lodge we had heavy rain, the first we have had in our 3 weeks. We sat in the restaurant with a beer and our computers enjoying the bird sound and the fresh smell of rain and plants. The heavy rain continued for hours. Jerry had an epiphany about the pictures not downloading and decided to check the storage on his computer and his Mac Air with a terabyte of space was filled! In two years! Mine is 6 years old and I have not even half filled mine. That is why his pictures were not downloading. Delete Jerry, delete all but the best pictures. I have said this over and over. He just cannot do it but now on vacation is forced to and that is how things get deleted that are actually important. So he deleted and then the pictures downloaded. The wire still did not download mine so we still need a new cord. Will he learn to delete more? I’m not holding my breath.
Finally the rain cleared late afternoon and we did a little birding afterwards before heading back to town for a meal of pizza. We had a fantastic veggie pizza just loaded with toppings and I had them add some pepperoni on my side. The pizza took a very long time to make but it was worth the wait.
In the morning we took a final walk down the road in the opposite direction and managed to still add 3 new lifers out of the 53 species we saw or heard. On every walk or outing there are 5-10 birds that come up on Merlin that we do not add to our list because we do not hear or see them. If we used Merlin and assumed it was correct the number of bird species would be so much higher. As it is we are always excited when we see something new on Merlin and start looking around and then disappointed as it never calls again or is seen.
At one point a small bird flew past me across the road and I binned it to see where it had gone into the shrubbery, it then popped out and I was stunned to see an Orange-collared Manakin. They are everywhere now LOL! As we walked back towards the lodge we heard a loud squawking right beside us in the grass and Merlin identified it as a White-throated Crake, another lifer! We waited quietly, and checked the grass carefully but it was not going to let us see it. These are skulky birds so it was not surprising it stayed hidden. We also added a Lesser Eleania and a Scaled Pigeon.
We could have stayed out longer but we had asked for breakfast at 7 and we needed to drive to our next destination so we headed back but kept seeing something new and wished we had more time. Breakfast was, as always, delish and we quickly packed up and then sat for 15 minutes or so waiting for our car to decide to go into drive. Yikes, it was getting more and more difficult but only 2 more driving days. Fingers and toes are crossed!
Cabinas Canto del Bosque is a lovely destination, close to lots of birding spots and a good birding spot on its own. It was the least expensive so if you are on a budget this is a place to check out. Basic room but clean and comfortable, good food, great service. I forgot to take a picture of the room but assume there are pictures online.
We headed out to drive through the mountains north towards San Jose.
12 more species of birds added to the year list with 9 of them being lifers
After we left Cerro Lodge we sat in the traffic at the Tarcoles Bridge. Construction on the bridge has meant waits of 3 hours sometimes but we were lucky that with the Easter holidays they had stopped most of the construction and so our wait was not long.
I stopped at a pharmacy in the first town we came to. With google translate and a clerk that spoke a bit of English I had a doctor take a look at the infection and tell me I needed oral antibiotics, something I suspected myself. It took all of 5 minutes and $46US to be back in the car with cream and the antibiotic. I ran it quickly past Keira (the family pharmacy tech) and started taking it. Hopefully it will work fast.
We both enjoyed the air conditioning in the car and I kept my legs cool to help with healing for the 5 hour drive down the coastline with views of the ocean here and there. We saw Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigatebirds that we have seen many times in the past.
Brown PelicanMagnificent Frigatebird
We had originally planned to stop at the very popular Manuel Antonia NP but it was another situation of having to try and reserve your time to get in and it is apparently very crowded as the beaches there are beautiful. After speaking with some birders we opted not to go there because more than likely we would be seeing birds we had already seen. I was not wanting to be on crowded trails either.
Needing a break from driving we pulled into a birding lodge that had been recommended to us and had a nice cold smoothie. They offered trails to the ocean and guided birding but it was mid-day and hot and we did not want to spend hours hiking or pay the fee they wanted. So we enjoyed the smoothie and then carried on.
We stopped at the Rincon River bridge where Yellow-billed Cotingas can be reliably seen. We had no idea where people looked from or which side of the bridge to look but we checked out the area and will have to get some intel from the lodge and stop again on our way out. We did get another lifer at the river although we would not know until later when Jerry checked pictures. A Ruddy-breasted Seedeater was tucked behind a Variable Seedeater.
Ruddy-breasted Seedeater (back bird)
We arrived at Danta Corcovado Lodge and it was fantastic . A large open air main restaurant and lobby built from bamboo is the centre piece that offered places to sit and eat. No shoes were allowed in this structure to keep the floors as gleaming as they were.
Our room was like a tree house/hobbit house. It was made to look like it was in the roots of a ficus tree. It was very cool and had another outdoor bathroom that was stunning compared to the last one.
We opted not to go for birds as it was very hot but instead relax a bit and catch up on blogs, FB shared albums and ebird lists and pictures. This is the only lodge without cell service but the wifi was very effective. Tomorrow we have the whole day at this lodge to explore on our own. I opted to not book any guided tours hoping there would be enough to find on the large property. We could have tried for the Mangrove species and booked to go to the Corcovado NP but both of us are getting tired and so we will stay and be ok with what we might miss. While we were busy on our computers one of the staff came over to call out attention to the Squirrel Monkeys that were arriving for their afternoon snack courtesy of the Lodge.
Before dinner we walked a bit of the trails and added two more hummingbirds – Charming and Blue-throated Goldentail. The hummers always seems so easy since they are always around the verbena that every lodge seems to have planted. All it involves is standing or sitting near it and eventually you are rewarded. Getting pictures, of course, is a different story as Jerry will attest to.
Charming HummingbirdBlue-throated Goldentail
We also heard a Little Tinamou and hope we will get to see one, we heard Black-faced Antthrush and the Black-cheeked Ant- Tanager, an endemic with a limited range. We went into the bar where I decided on my first Gin and Tonic of the trip. Very tasty! Dinner was, of course, delicious as have all the spots been. At this lodge all dinners are the same price and include soup, bread, the main and dessert. I had shrimp and Jerry had a fish with a guacamole kind of sauce.
The downside to this lodge is no air conditioning like we had at the last place and so my skin is not going to heal in the heat that continues through the night. Usually we do not use air conditioning but I would have welcomed it. The power was off in the night and so the fan was not even working. I woke up in the middle of the night quite uncomfortable, the first time on the trip. In the morning, at 5:30 I took my third dose of antibiotic and was vomiting by the trail 10 mins later. Shoot! there is a reason they say to take them with food. I had just forgot. I went back and forth to the room for the next 30 minutes until my stomach finally settled with a granola bar. I won’t do that again! We started the morning a bit late but I was glad we had not been on a guided tour. We thought we had finally managed to find the Fasciated Tiger-Heron, a species we missed in the mountains but after asking a guide later to look at the pictures it turned out to be a juvenile Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, the species we already saw. They are a tough ID and even the guide had to look carefully so we did not feel too bad about messing up the ID.
Bare-throated Tiger-Heron
We walked on to the Canopy tower and spent a wonderful few hours watching birds fly in and out around us. We saw our first Fiery-billed Aracari, Golden-naped Woodpecker, and Gray-headed Tanager. We saw or heard 48 species in the few hours we were there.
Remember how I said the Scarlet Macaws are soooo loud? Listen to this:
We had seen the Chestnut-backed Antbird at Carara NP where Jerry spent so much time trying to get a very bad picture and here at this lodge they were everywhere, popping up beside the path, on shrubs and on the path for great views. We had a good laugh over it as it seems like this has happened with many of the birds. The first picture takes so much effort and then after that the bird just keeps popping up.
Chestnut-backed Antbird
We stayed until 8 and when the birding started to slow down we headed for breakfast and had the standard we have come to expect at all the lodges. Both of us like the Gallo pinto and I will be looking up a recipe at home to make some. Of course, I also wish I had chefs at home to make all my meals! It has been a very big perk these 3 weeks not having to cook.
We headed back out even though it was already hot and an hour later on the trails we hit maximum humidity. Our clothes felt soaked, our glasses were steaming. We had sweat running down our backs, faces and getting in our eyes. My palms were even sweaty so it made carrying the phone to hear the calls difficult. Ugggh! and birds were singing right in front of us over and over but we were not able to see them. It was so frustrating. Would a guide have better luck finding the birds? I don’t know…
We sat down on a bench to take a break and there was an Aracari just sitting quietly in a tree. I wonder how many birds we walk by without any idea they are there. Most of our hike we had been accompanied by the resident dog who walked with us, went ahead, came back and essentially followed along with us. As we neared the cottages the dog suddenly took off and bounded into the shrubs flushing a number of birds that we quickly figured were quails or doves. The birds flew a distance but we managed to get on them to ID them as the Marbled Wood-Quails we had seen at Carara NP. There were birders at the cottages near by and they came out for a look so we managed to get a few more people on the birds. People hear these Quails but do not always see them. We ended our morning walk at the Hummingbird patch and it did not disappoint with another lifer, White-crested Coquette! A stunning Hummingbird if it slowed down enough for Jerry to take a picture.
White-crested Coquette
We headed back to our house around noon drenched in sweat and took refreshing cold showers. It felt so good! We spent the afternoon again in the restaurant area catching up with pictures and lists and enjoying a tiny breeze in the 32 feeling like 39 weather. I managed to FT with my friend Marg and my kids and just enjoyed the ambience. We would not have had this luxury on a birding tour as we noted all of them were still out in the heat. It is not easy to let the birding go and just decide to sit and enjoy.
And while we sat there the Riverside Wren came to us. We had only just heard it in Carara NP and here at the lodge but finally there it was on the bank of the river beside us so Jerry could take pictures. LOL sometimes just sitting and waiting yields good birds
Riverside Wren
We headed back out onto the trails and spent some more time at the Canopy late afternoon. A Black-bellied Wren was calling and calling in a shrub at the base of the tower. We stood there and eventually I had glimpses of it deep in the shrub. Jerry was on the other side of the shrub and we talked back and forth as we watched it move through the branches. He tried to get a picture but the bird was not very co-operative. The best pic was this:
Black-bellied Wren
And we finally managed to see a White-browed Gnatcatcher that we have heard at a few lodges but never seen. Again, the bird was not too co-operative.
White-browed Gnatcatcher
We also saw a lifer Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, almost identical to the Russet-naped Wood-Rail we saw back at the Botanical Gardens at the University. Thankfully, they have separate geographic locations so that we do not need to figure out which is which.
Gray-cowled Wood-Rail
I know I’ve posted a few pics and videos of ants but I just really became fascinated with them on this trip. You could not ignore them. They were everywhere!
Ok, I promise no more ants!
We met up with an American birder later on the walk who gave us great information about finding antbirds and how they feed and he also told us about a lek for Orange-collared Manakins on the property, something I did not know. Normally, I would be checking ebird each night for where we were and what people were seeing but I have not managed to do this very often with all the pictures and recordings to go through so I had no idea they were at this location. The male birds keep an area “clean” for the females and when one is present they jump from stick to stick above the cleared space using their wings to make a snapping or popcorn sound. He showed us the area and we heard the birds making their funny popcorn or electric noises and I had a very brief view of some orange but that was all. We decided to try first thing in the morning. During our chat we found out that he was on his 9th trip to Costa Rica to finish seeing all the species and needed, of all things, the Marbled Wood-Quails. We all had a good laugh that we had seen them twice in the last 3 days and here he was on trip 9 never having seen them. We showed him where we had seen them and he was determined that his morning was to try and track them down. Just before dinner, back at the parking lot we saw and took a photo of a small olive bird with bright orange legs – it was an Orange-collared Manakin female!
Orange-collared Manakin
We headed into the bar before dinner so I could have another Gin and Tonic and I chatted with a group of women that had a guide touring them around and found out some details for looking for the Yellow-billed Cotinga at the river crossing. I decided since every meal was the same cost, to order steak and Jerry ordered shrimp. The steak was very, very good and we thoroughly enjoyed another lovely meal.
I slept better the second night despite the power once again being off for some time in the night. Seems to be a usual happening as flashlights are provided by the beds. The antibiotics were doing their job and the bite infection was starting to subside.
We were awake and ready by 5:30 again, the result of falling asleep before 10. We quickly made our way in the early light to the trail and lek. There was a bench there and we sat.The calls of the birds started almost immediately but it was still dark to see anything. I tried to video the calls and pressed wrong buttons and then apparently put my phone down recording and so got a great recording but no picture. HAHA!
Then the birds appeared and we had great looks at them. They were like a burst of sunshine, the orange was just stunning to see. Of all the Manakin species I am glad it was this one that we were getting up close and personal with.
Orange-collared Manakin
While we were sitting there another group of birds started calling quite loudly beside us. It was the Wood-Quails! I felt so bad that I had not gotten the American’s info to text him but it might not have gone through anyway with the lack of service. The Quails moved down the path and we could here more of them closer to the lodge calling so we knew he would have at least heard them. We then continued on our way hoping to come across a group of feeding antbirds but it was not to be.
We went back and had breakfast and then packed up the car to head to our last lodge of the trip Canto del Bosque.
This lodge is very special – yes it is rustic, yes it has no cell service, but it is a beautiful place with loads of trails and birds and close to the National Park. The service again was impeccable, food delicious. We had nothing to complain about and wish we had days longer to stay and flush out all those Ant bird species.
On the way out we stopped at the Rincon River and stood out on the bridge for 45 minutes until we saw a Yellow-billed Cotinga. It was at quite a distance. At the end of our binocular strength. I was worried we were wrong and it was something else but what other completely white birds were at that bridge? I was going through possibilities in my mind and in the end just had to leave and hope that the pictures showed something.
Yellow-billed Cotinga
And then we left the Osa Peninsula and headed North East to our last Lodge.
Danta Corcovado Lodge and Rincon River 19 species added to the year list with 16 of them Lifers