Ellen Horak | The Ovenbird Blog

#6 Hotel de Campo Cano Negro Refuge March 22-24

by Ellen Horak | Apr 26, 2026 | 2026

After we left La Fortuna it was only a 3 hour drive to Cano Negro but the road in is not for the weak or faint-hearted. We knew it would be bad. Everyone we mentioned to that we were going to Cano Negro asked the same question – which road are you taking? Be prepared for a flat tire even if you drive slow. I was nervous but I was still going to go – we had a reservation after all. The first 90km were nice, paved road and not a lot of traffic. A surprise police stop for a drug search of a car in front of us was a bit strange but then we were very close to the Nicaraguan border so we figured this must be the reason to stop all trafiic both ways and have police dogs sniff around cars. The poor guy in front had to get out, empty pockets etc while they searched his car and everyone else sat and waited patiently while this transpired. Eventually, he was allowed back in his car and we were all waved through.

Shortly after we turned off the main highway and the road rapidly became worse and worse. My videos do not give the full extent of the road – the deep crevasses, yes crevasses, not little indents, it was lose your car in the crevasse. OK, maybe a bit of an exaggeration but you get the idea. We did not go above 10-15km an hour. It was a long, hot, dusty drive with me keeping my fingers crossed that we did not get a flat, and acting as the navigator around holes.

In between that we stopped for birds along the route. We were now in different habitat, grasslands and marsh. We ended up seeing a Roadside Hawk, Crested Caracaras, White-tailed Kite, Groove-billed Ani’s, all not lifers. As well as Meadowlarks and Red-winged Blackbirds. We did see our first Morelet’s Seedeater and I got a picture of it as it was on my side of the car. The Roadside hawk was also my picture since it was on my side of the car. I point it out as there are so few bird pictures of mine. We just birded from the car as getting out into the heat and dust of the road was not appealing at all.

We did arrive finally, with the vehicle in one piece! and no flat tire but we did have to drive back out in two days. The owner was friendly and welcoming, as they all are, and he let us know that we were the only guests for that first night. This lodge is not as well-appointed as previous places. It was older and the rooms were a little tired looking. Very clean and still more than adequate but not top of the line. The restaurant area was beautiful.

We had a nice walk around and added a few lifers down by the river. We saw a distant Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, a Black-collared Hawk flyover, a Pale-vented Pigeon, Black-headed Trogon and a group of Olive-throated Parakeets. We saw all of them! The difference between forest and river birds. I won’t post pictures as they were all quite distant and Jerry took much better pictures on the boat ride.

We had a yummy dinner prepared by his wife. Tilapia in white-wine sauce for me and Jerry had a Seafood with FRESH made Pasta! Served with fresh baked bread. To be in the middle of nowhere and get that kind of food is really wonderful.

We went to sleep early as we had the boat tour for 6am. It was only a five minute drive away but as we have been finding it is not always easy to get our rental car going in the morning. There is an issue with the gear changing and so it will go into reverse but when Jerry tries to put it into drive the engine just revs. It seems to only be in the morning and he moves the shifter around, back and forth and eventually it will start to go and then is usually fine the whole day but it is becoming more stressful as the days go by and the problem seems to be taking longer to resolve.

The boat trip was just us and a guide in a long boat equipped with rotating seats. It was fantastic! Our guide pointed out anything he saw or heard along the shore or in the water and he slowed or stopped the boat so Jerry could try for pictures.

We had stellar views of Bare-throated Tiger-Herons, Southern Lapwings, we added lifer Nicaraguan Grackle, a bird that is only found in this area of Costa Rica.

Many heron species, Tricoloured, Little Blue, Green, Snowy and Egrets.

We saw 4 species of Kingfisher, Green, Amazon, Ringed and American Pygmy. The American Pygmy was the toughest to see as it is so tiny but after carefully checking all the branches from where the calls were coming from we found it.

Really, truly the highlight of our trip even though we did not see that many lifers, just 11 out of 78 species seen. BUT it was just so cool being out on the water and really seeing so many different birds well even though many were birds we had seen previously. We felt incredibly grateful to be able to have experiences like that. I hit my 1,000 bird on the trip with seeing the Green-breasted Mango, a hummingbird.

We saw the Russet-naped Wood Rail that is almost identical to the Gray-cowled Wood Rail but easily determined by geographic area and call. We had a relatively close Black-collared Hawk that was content to let us take pictures and video.

Better looks at Green Ibis

Good looks at some land birds – Black-headed Trogon, Cinnamon Becard, Barred Antshrike, Mangrove Swallows and a Yellow-tailed Oriole, Olive-headed Yellowthroat and our first Prothonotary Warbler of the year.

We traveled through narrow canals giving us close views of Herons as they flushed on our approach. We added a lifer Boat-billed Heron roosting in the trees.

The water was quite low and so low that in order to access the back marsh area we had to anchor the boat and walk through a back area to view the marshland from land instead of water. It was in the marsh lands that the vast number of birds were congregating. Among them 26 Jabiru’s! A huge bird that I wish had been a tad closer.

There were also many Wood Storks, Egrets, Spoonbills and Various Herons in a vast group of 800-1,000 birds. Crested Caracara flew around the periphery. Vultures congregated along the waterways.

On the walk back to the boat our guide pointed out a few species to us – a Black-crowned Night Heron and then suddenly he heard and then saw a Tropical Royal Flycatcher!! That is a mega bird to get! Not easy. Sadly he did not raise his “crown” for us but still a fantastic bird to see and to get decent pictures of.

Once we were back in the boat the guide told us we had to watch the shoreline closely for a Sungrebe and so we started looking and within a minute we had a Sungrebe. Another much sought after species in Costa Rica. Stunning!

Soon it was time to head back and we could see on our return how much quieter it was for birds out on the water and how many more people on tours were out looking for birds. I was happy we had gone early. There were other critters along the river.

The tour ended at 10 and we were back at the hotel a few minutes later for a lovely breakfast accommpained by Mambo Number 5. All the music in the lodges has been from the 80-90’s and it feels like I am listening to my CD collection. I constantly feel like I should be dancing, it was weird and wonderful to hear the soundtrack of my life playing at every meal.

We chose to take some pool time since we were the only ones at the lodge and managed to add a lifer Spot-breasted Wren that we had heard briefly yesterday but we didn’t add it because we were not 100% sure. By the pool we saw it well and Jerry photographed it.

We spent the rest of the afternoon by the fountain in the restaurant with some cold beers and finally making some headway with the picture backlog. I spent time making blog notes, FB posts and helping Jerry sort pictures and update ebird lists. There is the temptation to think that we should be out there birding, we are in costa Rica after all but i didn’t want this trip to be about the race to see things and so I have been fine with taking hours to sit and relax, and be ok of the potential misses if we had rushed off here or there.

In the late afternoon we birded the garden a bit more but did not add anything new. We had another delicious dinner along with a number of other people who had arrived and it became quite a party atmosphere in the restaurant as more people arrived from what appeared to be a tour bus.

We were super tired though and headed to our room to pack up a bit and fall asleep way too early. In the morning we birded the road out front of the lodge and Jerry got pictures of a small bird that turned out to be an Oliveaceous Piculet – a tiny woodpecker the size of a Nuthatch. Another lifer.

Olivaceous Piculet – Who comes up with these names?

We finished with another awesome breakfast and spent 5 minutes or so waiting for the car to decide to work and then headed out to tackle a different road to leave by. Different by direction but not by what it was like to drive on. Craters, divots, ruts, depressions, slab breaks, whatever you call it, just like the road on the way in.

Cano Negro 45 birds added to the year list and 19 of them lifers

#5 Arenal Observatory Lodge March 19-22

by Ellen Horak | Apr 24, 2026 | 2026

We were sad to leave Rancho Naturalista as we knew there were many more birds we could have seen but it was time to move on and we had a 4.5 hr drive to Arenal but with plans to stop at a couple of places along the way. Our first stop was just a quick detour into Finca Tres Esquis or Farm and Forest. I had seen ebird reports from there and knew that Purple Fruitcrows was on the list of expected birds so we pulled in as it was right off the highway. It was a large property and clearly we would not have time to cover it all but we drove in a way and stopped near a look out and pond. We saw our first Green Kingfisher and Least Grebes, both not lifers and then from the tower we saw our lifer Black Hawk Eagle.

We walked the road for a bit but didn’t see or hear any Purple Fruitcrows and we just did not have the time to continue through the property. Even with three weeks it seemed like we did not have enough time to explore all the places we wanted to. We continued back on the highway and as we were driving I sighted a white and black raptor in a tree beside the road. I knew this was likely our Laughing Falcon lifer and Jerry pulled over quickly, got out and took some photos from a bit of a distance. Always nice when the lifers position themselves along the roadway LOL!

Fifteen minutes further along I spotted a wetland area and we could see some birds on the pond so we did a u-turn and came along the side of the pond to see our first Southern Lapwings, a gorgeous shorebird.

The main spot that I had wanted to stop at was La Selva Biological Station. I had saved all the places we were traveling to on my google maps app and so I punched in La Selva and we followed the directions. We ended up in a private yard! where I had a “conversation” with a lady in Spanish without me knowing any Spanish. I had a look at the map and realized that I had saved the ebird pin for La Selva which is clearly not at La Selva and the actual place was back about 10 minutes and on a different road. This was the first navigation error and self-inflicted with the wrong pin. La Selva has a large number of bird species and many people decide to stay in the area to visit it. I had considered adding a few days and doing that but I changed my mind figuring we would see many of the same birds at the other lodges. What I did not realize is that you need an actual reservation to get in as the security guard sadly informed us. Shoot! We had left the other birding place so we would have all the time at this place and now we could not get in. I asked if it was possible to use a restroom at least and he was kind enough to allow us down to the restaurant area and washrooms. We were happy to just have that access at least and figured we might see some birds so the visit was not a total bust. At the restaurant we met up with people we had just met at Rancho Naturalista and were staying at La Selva for a couple of days. After using the washrooms we ventured onto the drawbridge near by and had a close view of a lifer Yellow-throated Toucan, not to be confused by the Keel-billed Toucan.

We slowly walked back toward the security booth listening and looking for birds and added a Slaty-tailed Trogon, a Black-faced Grosbeak, and had great views and interactions with some Collared Acararis.

It was extremely hot and it was mid-day so we were happy to at least add a few birds as disappointing as it was to not get in to experience the forests of La Selva. While doing this blog I checked one of Jerry’s pictures and realized it was a bird we did not have. Another lifer added weeks after we are home LOL. Plain-brown Woodcreeper.

We continued on to Arenal and after another drive up into the mountains, on paved roads at least, we arrived at a beautiful lodge with stunning grounds, volcano views, and nice rooms. As we stepped into Reception we were greeted with cool facecloths to clean up and a refreshing cold fruit juice while we checked in for another three day stay. Nice! On the way to our room we added a lifer Great Currasow right outside the room! Close views, no bins required.

Our room faced the volcano and we had some lovely plantings outside the room to attract Hummingbirds and Honeycreepers.

While we had a cold beer on our patio we added a Violet-headed Hummingbird and then headed out to the deck with feeders to watch all these colourful birds coming into feed. We added Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Carmiol’s Tanager, and Red-lored Amazon as well as great looks at lots of Honeycreepers and Tanager species.

We had a guided walk scheduled for the morning but we were told he had a family emergency so we were offered a few alternatives and we decided on another guide for the second morning. They found someone available and let us know later in the evening that we were on for the tour.

We found the dinner good but not as good as our previous lodges. The staff were lovely and friendly but the dinner arrived lukewarm and it was quite expensive for what we had. Arenal is big, busy and located in the most popular tourist area of La Fortuna so although it is known for its birds there were many people staying there who were not birders. It was a different feel from our previous small, quiet lodges.

After dinner we headed out to walk the property knowing that a few owl species are regularly seen and heard. I was going from notes on ebird reports that suggested we look on the other side of the property so we crossed the swinging bridge and checked out the gardens as the light left. We found a Blue-black Grosbeak just before dark although the female was neither blue or black. We continued on through the gardens listening intently for owl sounds but came up empty.

As I settled into my bed with my computer to write some blog notes I see something move out of the corner of my eye and there is a tiny lizard scurrying across my blanket. I do not scream or throw the computer in the air. It is a pretty cute lizard and so Jerry helpfully assists it out of the room. I do not dream of lizards in my bed.

Next morning we woke up to many Coatis walking through our yard searching for grubs in the grass.

With no guided tour we went out at 6:30 for 2 hours and heard 4 more lifers, Broad-billed Motmot, Song Wren, Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush and Long-billed Gnatwren. We managed to finally see the Song Wren but the other three remained elusive. It was overcast so the lighting was horrible in the dense trees. We also saw our first monkeys – White-faced Capuchins before heading into breakfast.

This Bay Wren was very co-operative though.

The restaurant overlooks the gardens and the feeding areas with sliding windows that you can move right out of the way. We chose a table beside the best window for viewing, the perk for so many non-birders choosing to be near the food instead. A very good thing as a couple of Gartered Violaceous Trogons were sitting in nearby trees. Jerry took some pictures and then went out to get even closer ones.

After breakfast we had decided to do the furthest and longest trails around the lodge and headed out with water and snacks. Over the next 5 hours we walked all the different trails seeing mostly birds we had already seen but also tracking down birds we had only heard. Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush was one. It kept singing, we kept moving to get closer, it would stop, we would search with our bins, then move away, it would start singing. I went back and forth along the path determined to find it. I was looking at eye-level height but also started looking lower and suddenly there it was on a rock in a clearing. We had lovely views of it and Jerry took some nice pictures. We were both pumped from sticking it out and finding it. It is what we like most about birding.

We still managed to find some lifers on our own, Pale-billed Woodpecker, Black-crowned Tityra, Band-backed Wren, and a Northern Tropical Pee-wee. And somehow we saw all of them as well as took pictures.

The hike took us to different habitat, farmland, forest, over bridges and down shaded paths.

Every trail in Costa Rica has ants – Leaf-cutter Ants, Army Ants, and probably all kinds of other ants. I look down every time I stop to make sure I am not standing on their “highways”. I am starting to find them fascinating and find myself watching their long columns of busyness.

The last lifer of the hike was a Slate-coloured Grosbeak that we listened to for 15 minutes or more but remained elusive off the trail. We walked 10 kms and then did 20 flights of stairs to see the waterfalls on the property. It was nearing 2pm and we were hot and sweaty by the time we made it back to our rooms. A pool break seemed in order so we spent some time in a warm jacuzzi and pool with lovely views of the volcano free from any clouds.

Arenal Volcano was clear for minutes each day but mostly it was cloud-covered.

Once we were dried off a bit we went over to the hummingbird gardens in hopes of seeing something special. A few weeks back a Black-crested Coquette had been frequenting the flowers but in those weeks many of the flowers were spent and so there were fewer birds coming to them. We did see a new one though, a Purple-crowned Fairy.

I glanced down the path at one point and saw a different shape land in a tree – I got my bins on it and recognized it as new but not sure what it was. It had long thin tail feathers and was mostly black and white. I tried to get Jerry on the bird to take pictures while also trying to memorize what I was seeing in case it left. Eventually he saw it fly and then managed to take pictures and a man on his balcony was looking at it too and had a bird book so he was flipping through it and then the bird called and Long-tailed Tyrant came up and solved the problem for us.

On the way back to our room we saw a couple taking pictures by a telephone pole and stopped to see what they were looking at – Black and Yellow Tanager! We had already seen these at Rancho but did not have great looks or pictures. A nice bonus and then a staff member showed us a Rufus-tailed Hummingbird nest near our room.

A gathering of Yellow-throated Toucans kept us entertained for a bit.

Today Jerry hit a milestone in birding when he moved past 1,000 lifetime birds seen. His 1,000 bird was the Black-crowned Tityra. I still have a few more to go because Jerry has some European lifers that I do not have. Yes, a trip to Europe is in our future so I can try and even things up!

After dinner we headed back out to see about finding the Black-and-White Owl. We had heard from a birder during the day that it stays around the parking lot so instead of moving to the other side of the lodge as we did the night before, we stayed in the parking area. I went out with my pyjamas on figuring it was dark and not many people would be walking around. They have loons on them so I think it was appropriate birding clothing LOL. We only walked a short way down the parking lot and suddenly heard the owl quite close. We looked carefully and could see it in the trees and then it flew back behind buildings. We followed and got some views of it high in trees there. Then it flew again back near the restaurant and a better lit area. By this time people had come out of the restaurant wanting to see it and one of those people shines a light up towards the owl. We would not do that ourselves but we took a few pictures and then headed back to our rooms.

We were up early to meet our guide Jaime (Hymen) and spent a few minutes at the feeders while we discussed what birds we still needed to find. Jaime seemed confident he could find some new species for us so we headed down the lodge road. It was very steep and I was thinking about having to climb back up but Jaime kept going down. We saw a male Great Curassow that is quite different looking from the female. It was displaying with its grunts.

Jaime wanted to show us a Rufus-tailed Jacamar and he could mimic the call to try and bring them in close to us so we could see them. He tried at one spot but had no luck and so moved down to another spot.

There were some return calls at this spot but they did not move closer. We moved to a third spot and saw a Broad-billed Motmot, the species we heard yesterday but could not see so it was nice to add this species to the list. We then moved back up to the second spot. He called a few more times and the bird responded and then responded again closer and we started looking. Yes, finally close by a Rufous-tailed Jacamar! It looks like a large Hummingbird in colouring but it is actually the ? family. In minutes another arrived and we had two flying about, perching on the wires over the road and in the shrubs.

Jaime let us know that another bird was singing very close – A Western Woodhaunter – what a name! It ended up basically right in front of us in a thick tangle allowing us glimpses of it before it flew off so sadly no pictures. We also finally added a Bright-rumped Atilla that was singing and singing near us but not showing itself. We have had this bird come up on Merlin numerous times but we have not figured out which song matches it so this time Jaime helped and we isolate the song so we can add it to our list. On the way back UP the road we stopped often to try for other species of Trogons we have not seen and we ended up adding a Double-toothed Kite that flew into a tree across the road from us. Back at the lodge we took a walk along the paths near the Hummingbird gardens and a Gartered Violaceous Trogon perchs right beside us. It is so close that Jerry cannot get the whole bird in the shot. It appears to be nesting in the area and seemed fine to stay where it was despite the people coming past along the path. All in all is was another great experience with a guide.

Of course, after breakfast we hike down the River trail and Jerry spotted a Jacamar right beside the trail. It just always seems to be the way. Once you have seen a bird and added it to your list you see multiples of them.

The River Trail was labeled “Difficult” meaning steep, slippery and muddy.

We chose to spend the afternoon sitting out on our patio with beers and computers trying to catch up. Jerry is behind by 7 checklists and there are birds we do not even know we have seen. I’m trying to make notes for the blog and cannot even add names of birds and I am putting in checklists that have some of the birds but not all of them. While we are sitting there Jerry sees a bird that seems to be different. At first I think it is the Black and Yellow Tanager but Jerry is sure it is something else and starts taking pictures. It turns out to be another lifer, Black-cowled Oriole.

Just before dusk we head up to the feeding station to see if anything new will pop in but it is still mesmerizing to just see the same dazzling mix of the same birds from the last two days.

After dinner we get back to the lists and blogs but Jerry was falling asleep instead of doing pictures. I suggested I could start doing it but I think he fears that I will be deleting every picture except the one posted to ebird. UMMM! yes that makes total sense to me, why keep thousands of bad pictures? as he does…he fell asleep shortly anyway and the pictures continue to build…

Here are some random pictures from our 3 days at Arenal.

On the last morning at Arenal we had a leisurely breakfast and then drove down to La Fortuna for a date with a sloth I hoped. We had some laundry done for us at Rancho and needed to rinse a few things after the last very sweaty days but things do not dry well in this humidity so our car has become our dryer. Undies and bras hang in the trunk section. The heat in the car during the day is perfect for drying everything.

The Borgain Trail is an ebird hotspot and has a nice selection of birds but it is also known to have sloths. I wanted very much to see a sloth. It is $20 each to get in and 2 minutes up the trail there was one quite high up in the trees. Mission accomplished. We started birding while still watching for sloths and a helpful guide showed us a Common Parauque sleeping under a bush off the main path.

We had quick looks at a Tropical Mockingbird but no pictures of it as it flew away. We walked some more trails and saw 2 more sloths. We then had help finding a Black-and-white-Owl that we helped others see, saw yet another Jacamar! and showed that bird to others on the paths. We heard two new lifers, Fasciated Antshrike and an Ochre-bellied Flycatcher. Again, we hoped to be able to see these birds somewhere else. Another couple showed us a 4th sloth, again high up. We then had White-collared Manakins buzzing and squeaking around us as Jerry tried to get pictures when they briefly stopped.

White-collared Manakins – male and female

Another guide told us to ask at the desk about a Pacific Screech Owl that was roosting on a trail so when we got back to the front we asked and someone took us over and pointed to a very well hidden Pacific Screech Owl.

We decided to check back for one of the birds we missed seeing and in doing so ended up with our best views of a sloth, a juvenile just over a year old was climbing down out of the trees possibly to go to the bathroom which they only do every few days and so we could see him clearly, and all the flies attached to him as well. The loud buzzing noise in the video is cicada bugs that were in full voice at a number of locations. So loud they drowned out the song of birds!

We watched the sloth for a bit hopeful that it might make it to the ground BUT they move so slowly! We continued on our way and when we passed by on our way out it had not come to the ground after all and was further back in the trees. It was a wonderful trail and visit despite being somewhat commercialized and fairly busy. It still gave me the sloth experience I wanted and added a few more lifers to our bird list.

After our visit I saw a few comments online about it perhaps not being as ethical as they suggest and that they must feed the sloths to keep them there – something that is not supposed to happen. I don’t know what to believe, I had researched it before we left and been told that it was an ethical place so I guess make your own decision about what or how you want to see sloths when you travel there.

The stops and Arenal we saw 40 more new species for the year and 34 of them were lifers

#4 Rancho Naturalista March 16-19

by Ellen Horak | Apr 22, 2026 | 2026

We had originally only planned on one stop before our next hotel but because we missed the Bat Falcon and the Owls we doubled back a tiny bit to try for these two birds before our scheduled stop. Cachi Dam was only 15 minutes from Hotel Quelitales so we were there by 9. Instead of all the food trucks and tourists that were present on a weekend, it was empty on a Monday. We parked the car right at the end of the one lane across the bridge so we could see it as we walked across. Facebook was full of stories about never leaving anything in your car and walking away because roving bandits were everywhere so we exercised some caution since our suitcases and laptops were in the car. Jerry walked down and I followed slowly behind. We scanned the dam gates and structures as had been suggested. Nothing. We scanned the trees along the hill beside the dam as had been suggested. Nothing. Jerry decided to head back towards the car as I continued across. It was looking like there would be no joy again. I finished checking all the dam and then decided to check the trees again. As I scanned across the far hills I saw a lump at the top of a dead tree halfway up the hill that had not been there a few minutes before. Bins confirmed it to be the Bat Falcon! I yelled to Jerry to come back and he got as close as he could to take some pictures, which was not very close LOL. Success! it had taken all of 19 minutes.

Our next stop was Parque de Paraiso for the Tropical Screech Owls known to roost there. The park was still busy but no where near what it was on Saturday. We had to circle around to find a parking spot and ended up with one directly beside the trees the owls supposedly used. As we walked up a local started looking up too so I asked him if he knew where the owls were. He got up and walked down the path and then beckoned me over. Just 1, not the 2 but still how wonderful! We thanked him and spent some moments watching it and taking pictures and video. It was shaping up to be a good day! Two for two. How strange that these owls are comfortable roosting and nesting in a very busy park with lots of people sitting below them talking, children playing and Saturday market days with so much going on. They have been there for a few years now.

We stopped to pick up beer at a small grocery where it was half the price we had paid in San Jose and then filled up the car with gas and we were on our way to the birding stop, the Botanical Gardens, (CAITE) at the University. We arrived just after 11, the hottest part of the day and walked the gardens off the parking area. We still added a couple of lifers, Roadside Hawk and an Olive-backed Euphonia, to our list. Back at the car we watched the Montezuma Oropendolas tending their swinging nests in a massive Palm tree by the parking lot.

We then drove through the coffee plantation part adding a Giant Cowbird to the lifer list and saw a large Iguana crossing the road.

Further along there was a large marsh/lake that had hundreds of Cattle Egrets nesting in bamboo at the edge and lots of other marsh birds.

We parked and walked around the lake adding Northern Jacana and Russet-naped Wood Rail as well as some wetland species to the year list.

The last bird of the visit was a beautiful Green Honeycreeper, a stunning bird that I almost did not see. Jerry said “oh I’ve got this blue bird, and I said Blue/Gray Tanager?” as I had just seen one a minute before. Silence, he continued to take pictures. Eventually I realized he was still taking pictures and asked him what he had and put my bins on it and when I saw the gorgeous colour I realized it was not the tanager! I think he thought he had answered me and couldn’t figure why I was not more interested LOL. It was a gorgeous bird! Stunning turquoise really.

We then headed to Rancho Naturalista for a 3 day stay. A beautiful lodge with a dining area looking out to a feeding station and an upper deck with some hummingbird feeders as well as the feeding station view. Our room was lovely with doors opening out to the rain forest.

Arriving late afternoon the forests seemed quiet but after getting our room situated we stepped out for a bit of a walk around and added one lifer, the Thicket Antpitta which was singing over and over from a ravine off the lodge road. Jerry was a tad grouchy, long day, hot and silent forest. He went to take a nap and I sat outside our room and in minutes I had 3 more lifers all heard only, Bay Wren, Red-throated Ant-Tanager and Orange-billed Sparrow. Jerry woke up when I went in to get my camera so his nap was a quick 10 minutes. We eventually saw the Sparrow and Wren before dusk stopped our birding for the day. The sun is up the same hours every day, 5:30am – 5:30-6pm.

At Rancho Naturalista 3 meals every day are included and the food was fantastic. It was served on family platters at communal long tables so that guests got to know each other. The first night we were seated with a couple from Germany and then we joined a big table that included Greg and Heather, who we had met at Hotel Bougainvillea. They were finishing their stay at Rancho and we enjoyed catching up with them in the evening and the next morning.

We had booked a private guide, Steven for the next two mornings. We met up with him at 5:30 and in the 1.5 hours before breakfast we heard and saw 50 species with 18 of them being lifers for us. Steven was fantastic at the calls and knowing where to look along the roads close by. Highlights were Collared Aracari, White-collared Manakin, Rufous-winged Woodpecker, Cocoa Woodcreeper and a Checker-throated Stipplethroat, a bird I just wanted to see for its name. The bird is a bit underwhelming looking to be honest and Jerry did not manage a picture as it was deep in the leaves. Steven used pishing and some calls of his own and in a few instances playback to entice birds in closer. Jerry did his best but trying to get pictures was difficult with birds far away, in the leaves of trees or low to the ground, in the dark tangle of the forest. So this is the result – very sad pictures but they still hold memories for us being there and seeing the birds in our awesome binoculars where the view was much better than the pictures suggest. LOL

We saw or heard another 51 species on our forest walk after breakfast seeing the Tawny Chested Flycatcher, a rarer species, Dull-mantled Antbird and a Dusky Antbird, both difficult birds to find and to actually see being black and preferring the darkness of forest streams and bushes. We hoped to see the Thicket Antpitta that was constantly calling but it would not come onto its normal path to get some worms the staff leave for it every day. We added Spotted Woodcreeper and Wedge-billed Woodcreeper to the list and Jerry managed pictures of both.

Spotted Woodcreeper – check out the bracing feathers on the tail!

The paths are full of Leaf-cutter Ants and Army Ants and I assumed the Antpittas and Antbirds all feast on them but they do not eat ants, instead they have a parasitic relationship with the ants. While the ants move about other insects move out of their way and it is these insects that the Antbirds prey on. Cool huh? We heard a Collared Trogon and followed its calling back and forth along the paths until Steven managed to see it sitting back in the greenery. We did not have great views but it was our first Trogon in Costa Rica. Hoping we get better views of others.

At the end of our walk Steven tried to entice a Tarantula out from under its rock but it was not falling for the trick. We were happy to have it stay there where it was likely guarding its eggs.

We returned in time for a fantastic lunch of the best tacos and guacamole I have had. I was so “high” from all the birds we saw on the hike I forgot to take pictures. Well, to be honest, I was too busy stuffing my mouth with the deliciousness that I forgot to take a picture. The morning was such a fantastic birding experience, we were sold on using guides.

In the afternoon we tried to go through photos and lists to get everything on it. Steven led us to 48 lifers in half a day – we have been averaging about 20 on our own. It was a tad overwhelming though as he heard other things while we were listening to something else. I missed putting things on the list because he would hear multiple things so I added only those birds we saw or we actually stood and heard singing long enough with Steven saying “that is such and such” for us to confirm the bird.

Late afternoon we ventured down the main road to check out the hummingbirds at the owners house, she graciously welcomes any guests to sit and enjoy the hummingbirds. We were lucky to see a Male Snowcap right after we arrived and had better views of the Green Thorntail.

Our dining companions for the two nights were couples from England, US, and Nova Scotians, Richard and Tammy. It was a lively bunch and the conversation was about birding of course but also favourite books, traveling, families, past work, and a tiny bit of politics stemming from the Americans apologizing. It made the evening really entertaining with us hanging long after the meal was done which meant we were further behind on lists and photos but eventually we will get caught up and it is so nice to meet lovely people and enjoy a meal with good conversation.

The next morning we left the lodge with Steven to check out a few different areas to add birds not found in the rain forest. We walked up a rural road with farms and fields and added ten new lifers! Seedeaters, Sparrows, Tanagers and a Green Ibis.

Then we headed to an organic sugarcane company to add Gray-breasted Martin and a Torrent Tyrannulet in the nearby river that also netted us our 3rd Sunbittern of the trip. We tried for Cabanis Ground Sparrow but it was probably too late in the day for them to pop up.

Our last stop was for a Lancelated Monklet, one of the top rarities that people want in Costa Rica. Steven called at a few spots where he had it in the past but no bird showed up. We walked further up the road looking for Fasciated Tiger-Heron in the river but did not see one so headed back down and as we stood at the previous spot suddenly a bird flew in and it was the Monklet! What a different looking bird!

Yes, that is the view we had of the bird

As we have birded we have started seeing birds that up till now we just kept hearing. We heard a Yellow-olive Flatbill a few days back and finally saw it at this lodge, same with the Mistletoe Tyrannulet.

On our last afternoon we headed for the covered deck set up in the field area with a view of the forests. It was pretty quiet but we still heard and saw a number of birds and added another Trogon species, the Gartered Violaceous Trogon, unfortunately we just heard it, and heard it as it called. Hopefully we will catch up with this one at the next lodge.

I left our room door open for a few minutes so we could hear the birds and suddenly little critters were wanting to check things out. They were not harmed but transported back outside and our room door stayed closed after that.

Next morning we birded just an hour before breakfast and did not add any new birds! but had nice views of the Red-throated Ant-Tanager and Jerry took a much nicer picture.

The eggs at breakfast were delicious. I assume that they baked them maybe in a large round tray and spiced just right. We ate our usual hearty breakfast and then headed onward.

Rancho Naturalista is a special place and very well-known in the birding world. We paid for an expensive room because it was the only thing available so if you are considering going book way in advance. The Lodge is small and it is popular. Our itinerary was based around the dates we could get into Rancho Naturalista. This was our most expensive place to stay because of the room so it does not need to be that expensive if you book in advance. The food was fantastic, three meals included in the price with an honour system for cold beer and wine purchases. They also will do laundry at a reasonable price of $15 for half of a large laundry hamper. The number of species of birds possible was incredible and I wish we had more time at this lodge. The guide was excellent and I heard from others that their guides were also very good.

Stops and Rancho Naturalista and Guided tour 79 more species added for the year and 67 of them lifers

#3 Hotel Quelitales and the Sunbittern March 14-16

by Ellen Horak | Apr 18, 2026 | 2026

After leaving Paraiso Lodge the second time with my Apple wallet secured in my travel pouch we headed down the mountains from 9,000 feet to about 4,000. feet. Costa Rica traffic is slow but almost everyone is patient. The roads are narrow with almost no shoulders and sometimes only wide enough for one car where the downward traffic has to yield to all the upcoming traffic. The roads are used by large transport trucks, cyclists, motorcycles and then random dogs and people. The speed is usually between 40-60km but seldom do you hit the 60 to be honest. Because of the slow speeds people pass at curves, hills and under what I thought were insane situations – 4-5 cars all passing 2-3 cars or trucks at the SAME TIME WITH CURVES! But the expectation is the opposing traffic is also going slow and will stop or at least slow down. There were a few hair-raising moments but we did not witness any accidents.

Our planned stop was to see Tropical Screech Owls in the local park in Paraiso but when we arrived all the streets appeared blocked. We realized that Saturday is market day and the park was packed with tents and people, music playing and no parking within blocks of the park. We had our suitcases with us so we opted to not stop and leave our car far from the park unattended. We have another opportunity on Monday when we have to come back through to get to our next Lodge. The next planned stop was at the Ruins in Ujjarra a nice ebird hotspot to add some new birds. The parking had two security guards so we felt fine leaving our stuff although Jerry still brought the backpack containing our laptops. Apparently we are fine with all our clothing being stolen but electronics and camera stuff are never left.

As soon as we got out of the car Merlin reported a Yellow-green Vireo. We listened and quickly had no problem locating the song – it is almost identical to our Red-eyed Vireo song and also looks the same. We spent 10 minutes looking for the bird and never seeing it. This has been the frustrating part – so many birds we are able to ID correctly to species with Merlins help but then not able to find them even when the song is repeating in front of you. Dense leaves and tall trees are the reason. But, darn it – we want to SEE the bird!

We moved on and added Common Tody Flycatcher which I saw first but then Jerry saw it later in another part of the park and got pictures. We also added Variable Seedeater, Montezuma Orpendola, Scarlet-rumped Tanager and Yellow-olive Flatbill. We spent a lovely few hours wandering the park and listening to birds before being driven out by a worker using a leaf-blower. I detest leaf blowers and after a few minutes the noise just makes me have to leave. So we never had a second chance to see the Yellow-green Vireo.

Our last stop was at the Cachi Dam 10 minutes away where a Bat Falcon pair were known to nest. It was a one lane road over the bridge with food tents on either end for tourists to stop and see the dam and have something to eat. We stopped on the far side with just one tent and parking on that side. We paid the man $1 to watch our car and walked over the bridge. There was a raptor sitting on a pole down by the dam and we were very excited thinking it was the Bat Falcon and took some pics and video and then left. But both of us were thinking that the bird we saw just did not look like a falcon and the colouring was not right for a Bat Falcon. maybe it was a female or juvie? We would have to check it later. This trip has not left me with time to research birds before we go for them and so we rely on what we remember from going through the birds before we left and really that is not much. Sure enough, that evening we checked pictures and the bird we photographed was a Gray Hawk, a lifer but still, no Bat Falcon. What a rookie mistake, the excitement , the tiredness, all compounds to make your brain switch off from asking the questions to verify a sighting. Anyway we will not dwell on it. We have another opportunity to try for the Falcon on our way back out from the lodge. We did see our first Palm Tanager at the dam as well.

We were only 10 minutes further to our lodge and the last few hundred meters were over a ridiculous rough road. See the attached video. A local explained to us that keeping the roads rough ensures that the people visiting really want to be there. If everything is readily paved and available then it will quickly be over run with “those” kinds of tourists. LOL We had to laugh that they were actively working against having too many tourists but there is some truth to the matter. There are many places world-wide experiencing too many tourists and too many problems from the overcrowding. It was nice to see that greed was not part of the equation, making a decent living was what it was all about and all the lodges we stayed at were family run.

Hotel Quelitales is in the Highlands complete with a waterfall on the property with gardens and trails to search for the many species of birds that reside there. Our cabin, the Orpendolas, was large and beautifully appointed. They also had a few covered blind areas and a covered hummingbird viewing area. We dropped our suitcases off and headed back out to explore the property.

There were now many birds that we had already seen at the last lodge so we concentrated on seeing or hearing something new. We added Dusky-capped Flycatcher, White-breasted Wood Wren, White-throated Thrush, Yellow-throated Euphonia and Yellow-bellied Elaenia. Yes, the names are often difficult and intriguing, leaving us to wonder where they came from? We walked down the road to the waterfalls and checked out the one blind and then headed to the Hummingbird blind where we sat for a bit through a rain shower and added another 4 hummingbirds to our life list.

We took another walk back to a small pond for the bird we really wanted to see, the Sunbittern, a heron with a gorgeous wing pattern in flight. We had checked the pond when we first went out but nothing was there so we went back just before dusk. Jerry saw something move into a small canal past the pond but thought it was a Green Heron. I thought nothing of it and we continued to hang there for another 20 minutes adding a Sulpher-bellied Flycatcher to our life list. We decided with the light fading to head to dinner when Jerry saw something further down the canal. A closer look revealed it to be the Sunbittern!! It was the “Green Heron’ he had seen and we almost missed it. Crazy how silly we can be sometimes – we really should have checked it the first time he saw it. Anyway, we at least get to add it to the list and hopefully we will get good photos of it over the next two days. The photo everyone wants is with its wings spread.

Another delicious dinner followed at this new lodge, not included but reasonably priced. We are not on the birding diet of one meal a day with this trip. We are eating full breakfasts and full dinners every day. It gets dark early in Costa Rica – every day is 12 hrs of sun being so close the the equator – 5:30 am to 5:30pm.

It rained a bit during the night so the morning was wet and humid and Jerry had difficulty with his camera steaming up for the first hour or so but it did finally clear as the sun came up. Immediately outside our cabin, Merlin started reporting numerous birds to us but of course we could not see them. We started systematically trying to match the calls with birds we were seeing in the trees. This got a bit frustrating as we often cannot find the bird to confirm and so we at least try to confirm the call or song. We do not add all the species that Merlin tells us it hears, if we did we would probably have another 20-30 lifers already. Our rule remains that we must hear the bird after Merlin alerts and then confirm later with ebird that it is indeed the right call for that bird. We headed in the general direction of the Sunbittern to get better pics and picked up some lifers along the way. The Sunbittern was happily feeding and Jerry got some nice shots but the crisp wing shot remained elusive for him. We worked the area around the lodge for a few hours, met up with the owner who shared some stories of the lodge and showed us some new birds as well.

Breakfast turned out to be continual birding as we bounced up to watch Montezuma Oropendolas feast on fruit while we did the same and then later an Elegant Euphonia made a brief appearance. Birders with cameras moved to open windows to catch the next beauty that showed up.

We spent the next 3 hours walking the roads again and then taking a few trails into the forest. We scanned trees high and low and listened for calls that Merlin alerted us to and we found a number of lifers on our own with each one giving us a thrill. Crimson Collared Tanager, Bay-headed Tanager, Golden-hooded Tanager, Red-faced Spinytail were awesome and we got better looks at other birds we had already seen. Jerry attempted pictures in between the leaves or over great distances but it was not easy. It was cooler in the forest and very hot and humid out on the road.

At noon we headed to our cabin for showers and a few hours to catch up on photos, figure out what birds we had seen and just rest. Jerry was feeling like a cold was coming on or maybe just some allergies. In the evening we went back out for more pictures of the Sunbittern and then walked the road again adding 4 more lifers in the same stretch we had walked 5-6 times during the day. There seems to be always something different flying through. We had our first views of Keel-billed Toucans at a distance but then they flew over us for a bit of a closer look.

Our second dinner was just as good as the first and we filled up on yummy bread and soup to start. We are finding ourselves falling asleep really early – Jerry at 8:30-9 and me just past 9 which inevitably means we are both awake at 3:30-4am. We then have a bit of time to still catch up on pics and blog notes and figure out what birds we might see or should be looking for. Jerry is already behind by a few checklists. It is daunting work when you take hundreds of pictures and you need to also figure out what bird it is you saw. Merlin is helping a lot with that although it is also not foolproof so we usually double-check with ebird pictures and I’ve used Cost Rica Bird ID Facebook to help us as well.

We were out early for our last morning and only added one lifer before breakfast, the Buff-rumped Warbler. It was only heard as it was in the next yard behind a gate and we could hear it singing and singing but no visual. Hopefully, we will get a view of one somewhere else. We had a larger turquoise and green bird flush when we walked into the blind by the small pond and wondered what it might have been. We spoke with the owner and a guide later and we all came to the conclusion it was likely a Northern Emerald Toucanet. We had heard them but not seen one yet and that view was still not very satisfactory as we did not see the bill, just the back as it flew away. Another one we hope to eventually get good views of.

We headed into breakfast and then while Jerry went to check out I finished putting things in the car and then heard a different song, I pulled Merlin out and it reported Cinnamon Becard. A lifer – I quickly scanned the trees around the car and saw a cinnamon coloured bird with its back to me. I grabbed my camera knowing that Jerry would want me to get a pic. My camera is set on automatic so focusing is a problem when trying to get a bird in a tree of moving leaves but I snapped away and also took a video just in case. Woohoo! Somehow I managed to get a picture of it! We left the hotel with plans to make stops at the Dam and the Park for the Falcon and Owl we missed on the way in.

Birding stop and Hotel Quelitales 55 more species seen 44 of them lifers

#2 Paraiso Quetzal Lodge Hunt for a Quetzal March 12-14

by Ellen Horak | Apr 15, 2026 | 2026

We left Hotel Bougainvillea after breakfast and headed for our first birding stop of the trip – Casa Dowii. This little restaurant/bird-viewing spot is known for its great views of Tanagers and the Buffy- crowned Wood Partridge and Buff-fronted Wood Quail. The distance was only 52km but it took 1.5 hrs because of the mountainous, twisty roads. Generally we were traveling at 50-60kms. We arrived at Casa Dowii as another group was leaving so we had the whole viewing area to ourselves. You pay $20/person to see the birds whether they arrive or not. They even had a wall of windows in the bathroom so you would not miss a bird while on the toilet! Of course I also must mention the “weird” thing about bathroom etiquette in Costa Rica. No toilet paper in the toilet! It is deposited in a covered bin beside the toilet. A bit of getting used to as we are programmed to drop it in the toilet and a bit of an “eewwww” factor but like anything else you get used to it. Jerry has suggested we implement it at home to “save” our septic system but I’m saying NO very strongly on that one.

Within minutes of our arrival they restocked the feeders and the Tanagers arrived. Spangled-cheek, Silver-throat, and Flame-coloured Tanagers entertained us as they came in and out to feast on the fruit. It was lovely to get great views of these birds with them being so close.

We added more lifers as Common Chlorosphigus, Yellow-thighed Bushfinch, Chestnut-capped Bushfinch and Mountain Thrush also visited the feeders.

We waited for an hour or so, had a hot chocolate when we had taken enough pictures and kept waiting hoping for the Quail or Partridge. Nothing, even though we kept the windows closed and were absolutely quiet. Early mornings, of course, are best to see these species but you can only be in one place every early morning so this will likely be a recurring story of our trip.

We went and walked the small trail next to their building where we picked up another 3 lifers but they were “heard only.” As long as we hear the songs/calls numerous times and identify them with Merlin and ebird help we will add them to our lists now and hope that we see them at some point on the trip. There are many birds in Costa Rica that will prove difficult to see staying hidden high up in the canopies or secretive in the dark shrubbery at ground level and so our list will likely have a number of heard only birds this trip. Jerry is already finding it a challenge to get on birds that are not coming to a feeder. It is frustrating to not see a bird that is singing so beautifully and apparently close but we are constricted to trails and the birds are not.

Unfortunately, the Partridge and Quail did not make an appearance after we walked the trail so on to our next destination just another 30 minutes away.

Casa Dowii 14 more different species seen 12 of them lifers

We were a bit early for checkin so we drove a few kilometers further to check out Quetzals National Park. We spent only about 15 minutes in the parking lot and managed to add a couple of lifers – Wrenthrush (HO), Black-capped Flycatcher and White-throated Mountaingem, a hummingbird. We drove back down the road and checked in to Paraiso Quetzel Lodge. The staff were so friendly and welcoming. We had a small cabin with a view over the gardens and cloud forest. It was lovely.

The first time I have been in a hotel that offered hot water bottles! It does get cold in the cloud forest at 9,000ft. The forecast was for 5C overnight! and there was only a small table heater to take the chill off. When I checked the bed I was surprised to see 4 fleece blankets on our bed too!

We settled in and then headed out to the hummingbird deck for the event of a lifetime. The birds were whizzing past, almost landing on us, circling around us and allowed us to be inches from them without stopping their feeding. I took way too many videos and Jerry took many, many pictures. The Fiery-throated Hummingbird was fantastic to see with its colours showing.

Once we had most of the hummers Identified, six lifer species, we turned our attention to the forest around us and suddenly Jerry yelled Quetzal, we both watched this iconic large bird land quite a distance away but not far enough to not recognize that very long green tail. Jerry managed a few poor record shots and just like that we had a Resplendent Quetzal without going on the tour we had booked for the next day. So much for a hunt LOL. I had read stories on FB about people trying for days on end and not seeing any.

Yes, there is a Resplendent Quetzal in that tree – check out that looong tail!!!

We birded along the forest trail for a bit and then made our way back to our room for a quick beer but were interrupted by seeing birds in the garden so ran down the paths to see them better and take pictures. The beer sat for another hour while we followed the many birds until a light rain shower chased us back to our porch. We added lifers with Sooty-capped Chlorospringus, Large-footed Finch, Black-billed Nightingale Thrush, the Black-and-Yellow and Long-tailed Silky-flycatchers, and a favourite, the Slaty Flowerpiercer. This bird uses a hook on its beak to pierce the flower at its base to suck the nectar out of the flower.

Dinner was included and a varied menu was offered only we were asked to decide our dinner during the day and the time we wanted to eat so when we arrived at the appointed time our meal was quickly brought out. The food was even better than the last hotel. It had gotten chilly once the sun went down and we were happy to have the little heater going and the extra blankets. I opted not to use the hot water bottle. We were plenty warm with the extra covers.s

We were up at 4:30am and before we put the lights on I saw this dark spot on Jerry’s pillow when I sat up. I kind of did a swipe at it to brush it off the pillow, not really thinking it was a bug but of course it WAS! and it jumped down beside his body instead of the way I was swiping – away from him. He jumped up, I jumped up. It wasn’t in the bed but it was down his tshirt! We were no longer quiet now, as we scrambled around in the dark. He danced around while quickly taking off his T-shirt and ended up shaking the bug outside the room. UGGGH! We never saw it close up to see what kind of bug it was which was probably a good thing! We had a good laugh about it all but Jerry insisted that I should not try to “save” him by swiping at anything on his pillow in the future LOL. I have no idea why I tried to brush a bug off like that – call it “not quite awake yet” as I would never do that at home! I’d be on the other side of the room.

We had booked a guided tour to see the Quetzal on a private farm and we assumed we would have better views then yesterday. It was a very chilly 5C and I had not brought particularly warm clothing – I had a fleece jacket and just my birding clothes. Jerry suggested I wear my Pj’s underneath! What a great idea! I pulled pants, shirts and jackets over my pjs so I looked a bit like a puffball but I was warm. We heard Dusky Nightjars singing as we walked to the meeting spot – another lifer but one we do not expect to see as it is nocturnal. It was a small group of 10 with the guide and we arrived at the farm just after 5:30am. Within minutes we saw the male Quetzal as it flew in to the calls of the guide. The views were still distant but better than we had the day before. Over the next hour we moved as the Quetzal moved and to be honest, I started feeling bad for the bird. It was reminiscent of the Owl chases in Ontario. This bird and its mate had just started nesting and here we, and another 2 tour groups were moving up and down the hills trying to get views of it wherever it perched. I know Costa Rica tries to find the balance between tourism and ethical wildlife management but I was a bit uncomfortable. The nest site was staked out as well, but at a distance and the birds have nested there 3 years so they appear unbothered by humans. We were lucky to see another male arrive in the area so the two males were acting a bit territorial. The guide was telling me that there were often 200 people a day visiting that nesting site.

Once we had seen the Quetzals and taken pictures I turned my attention to the other birds around and really would have liked our guide to listen and tell us about other birds but the other people on our tour were not birders and clearly only interested in seeing the Resplendent Quetzal. I feel we had the possibility of adding a few more lifer birds if we had a different guide on this tour but it is what it is.

We arrived back in time for breakfast and then headed back out to the trails to bird.

I had originally intended to bird at the National Park just 6 km away and maybe visit another well know lodge but we were finding our energy level low and the thin air made hiking up and down trails slow. Or we are just plain OLD! We opted to stay and do the lodge trails and see what else we could find on our own. The bird I most wanted to get before we left was the Golden-browed Chlorospringus, a fantastic neon coloured bird. One of the guides had suggested the area to check at the lodge and so we headed there. We moved around a bit and then came back past the spot and suddenly a male and female flew in. Only a few quick looks before they flew off but what stunning colours!

We added a few more lifers through the afternoon, Ruddy Treerunner, Flame-throated Warbler, Ruddy-capped Nightingale Thrush and took a quick nap before heading back out for a last birding walk before dinner. We walked up the back road and added Yellow-winged Vireo before heading for another delicious dinner.

In the morning we managed to add another lifer on our early morning walk – We heard the continual calling of a Northern Emerald Toucanet. This is a bird we absolutely want to see at some point but it will go on the list now. After a hearty breakfast and a last stop with the hummingbirds we drove off to our next destination at a bit of a lower altitude.

About 10 minutes away from the lodge I suddenly had a thought that I had not seen my little Apple wallet that attaches to the back of my phone. Why this came into my mind I have no idea but thankfully it did. I did a quick look in my pouch were I had my passport and money stashed, the wallet and those items had been in the safe in the room since we arrived. The wallet was not there. I questioned Jerry as he had taken everything out of the safe. He said he had and had ran his hand over the bottom – nothing was in it. We pulled over. I quickly went through pockets and bags but I knew it had been put in the safe and I had not used it the two days we were there. I insisted that we had to go back. I texted the lodge and let them know we were on our way back and what i was missing. We were so lucky that we were not far away. I went back into the room and checked the safe and there was my wallet stuck to the side of the safe! Its magnetic of course so it probably flipped up from the bottom when Jerry took stuff out. In all fairness to him, the lighting was not great in our room either to really look into the safe. Whew! a lesson learned early, and with no repercussions. Safes will be checked carefully the rest of the trip.

I highly recommend Paraiso Quetzal Lodge for any birders heading to Costa Rica. The service was wonderful, the lodge is lovely, rooms are basic and large with fantastic views out over the cloud forest. Our room faced west and the sunset was beautiful. This was also one of the most reasonable priced places -two nights with breakfast and dinners for $286US. The Hummingbird experience alone is worth going but the gardens and trails have lots of birds to see as well and it was not far off the main highway compared to other lodges in the trip. It is only a short distance to Quetzal National Park and the road to the San Gerardo de Dota birding area. Our room was up off the reception area and I would probably take a cabin a bit further into the garden next time as we sometimes could here kitchen staff talking during the day but not an issue as we were not in the room for the most part and it was quick to the parking lot and the restaurant.

Paraiso Quetzal Lodge 29 more species added with 24 of them Lifers!

« Older Entries

Next Entries »